7 minute read -
Cutting Vinyl Flooring: Clean Edges Without Chips or Melting
Vinyl flooring with a rigid core can often simply be scored with a utility knife and snapped. For end cuts on plank after plank, a mitre saw with a fine blade is the quickest option, and for curves and notches you use a jigsaw. Whichever saw you use, pay attention to which side faces up, because that decides whether the decorative layer chips.
This guide to cutting vinyl flooring covers which saw and blade to use, how to stop the edges melting and how to fit planks neatly around radiator pipes.
What will you learn in this article?
- What is vinyl flooring and why do you cut it differently from laminate?
- Can you score vinyl flooring instead of sawing it?
- Which saw should you use for vinyl flooring?
- Which side up: decorative side up or down?
- Which saw blade should you choose for vinyl?
- How do you stop vinyl melting while you cut?
- How do you cut a vinyl plank around pipes?
- How much gap should you leave along the wall?
- How do you work safely and cleanly?
- Frequently asked questions about cutting vinyl flooring
- In short: cutting vinyl flooring
What is vinyl flooring and why do you cut it differently from laminate?
People often lump vinyl and laminate together, but they are two different floors. Laminate has a core of HDF (compressed wood fibre). Vinyl flooring (often sold as LVT) is built up from plastic layers, often with a rigid stone-plastic core (SPC) or a more flexible core. You notice the difference when cutting:
- Vinyl heats up with friction. A blade that runs too fast or is blunt makes the edge melt or fray.
- The wear layer is thin. Any splinter or chip shows straight away.
- Click vinyl with a rigid core can usually be scored and snapped, which does not work well with laminate.
So always check the manufacturer's fitting instructions first. They tell you which cutting methods the material can handle.
Can you score vinyl flooring instead of sawing it?
For straight cuts along the length or width, scoring is often the cleanest method, especially with rigid-core click vinyl.
- Lay the plank decorative side up on a flat surface.
- Place a steel square or straightedge along your pencil line.
- Score the wear layer two or three times along the same line with a sharp utility knife.
- Bend the plank over the score line until it snaps, and cut through the backing if needed.
Fit a new blade as soon as scoring starts to feel harder. With thin glue-down vinyl, cut straight through in one go. For short pieces, angled cuts and notches you will still need a saw.
Which saw should you use for vinyl flooring?
| Saw | Suitable for | Decorative side | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mitre saw | End cuts, mitres on skirting, lots of planks in a row | Up | Fine blade, feed steadily |
| Jigsaw | Curves, notches around door frames and pipes | Down (standard blade) or up (reverse-tooth blade) | Low to medium stroke rate, pendulum off |
| Circular saw | Long straight rip cuts, for example the last row | Down | Use a guide rail or straight batten |
| Multi-tool | Undercutting door frames or architraves | Not applicable | Use a blade for wood and plastic |
A sliding mitre saw also cuts wide planks in one pass. With a cordless jigsaw, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, you can quickly cut a notch without trailing a cable across the room.
Which side up: decorative side up or down?
The rule is simple: the decorative side faces the direction the teeth enter the material. That way the teeth press the wear layer down instead of lifting it off.
- Mitre saw and table saw: the blade cuts from top to bottom, so decorative side up.
- Circular saw: the blade cuts from bottom to top, so decorative side down.
- Jigsaw with a standard blade: cuts on the upstroke, so decorative side down.
- Jigsaw with a reverse-tooth (down-cut) blade: decorative side up.
A strip of masking tape along the cutting line gives extra protection against chipping, especially on dark designs. Mark your line on the tape.
Which saw blade should you choose for vinyl?
Choose a fine blade with plenty of teeth. For mitre saws and circular saws, a laminate or plastics blade with triple-chip (TCG) teeth is a good choice. The right number of teeth depends on the blade diameter, so follow the recommendations in your saw's manual and on the blade packaging. For the jigsaw, use a fine blade for plastic or laminate, with the pendulum action switched off.
A blunt blade is the main cause of ragged or melted edges. Replace the blade in good time and keep a spare to hand if you are doing a whole room.
How do you stop vinyl melting while you cut?
Melting is caused by heat. You can prevent it like this:
- Set the jigsaw to a lower stroke rate and switch off the pendulum action.
- Do not force the saw; let the blade do the work with a steady, even feed.
- Do not pause in the cut.
- Use a sharp blade designed for plastics.
How do you cut a vinyl plank around pipes?
For radiator pipes, work like this:
Measure the pipe positions
Measure the centre of each pipe from the wall and from the end of the previous plank, including the expansion gap.
Mark and drill
Mark the centre points on the plank. Drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe with a wood drill bit or hole saw, so the floor can move.
Cut through the holes
Cut the plank straight through the middle of the holes with the jigsaw.
Fit the pieces
Lay the large section, place the offcut strip behind the pipe and glue it in place with a suitable adhesive. A radiator pipe collar gives the edge a neat finish.
How much gap should you leave along the wall?
Vinyl expands and contracts with changes in temperature, particularly in front of large windows or over underfloor heating. Leave an expansion gap all the way round, along walls, door frames and pipes. The correct width is given in the floor's fitting instructions. Use spacers while fitting and cover the gap with skirting board afterwards.
At a door frame, undercut the frame or architrave with a multi-tool so the plank slides underneath. Use an offcut of flooring as a height guide under the blade. The same approach is used when installing laminate flooring.
How do you work safely and cleanly?
- Wear safety glasses, and hearing protection when using a mitre saw or circular saw.
- Vinyl dust is fine and sticks to everything. Use a saw with a dust bag or connect a vacuum cleaner, and wear a dust mask (at least FFP2) if you are cutting a lot.
- Avoid cutting in the room where the floor is already down. A fixed cutting spot in the hallway or garage saves a lot of cleaning.
- Support the plank firmly and keep your hands away from the cutting line.
Frequently asked questions about cutting vinyl flooring
Can you cut vinyl flooring with an ordinary handsaw?
Yes, with a fine-toothed saw such as a tenon saw or a small laminate saw. It is slower and the edge will be less crisp than with a power tool. For straight cuts, scoring and snapping with a utility knife is usually quicker.
Which side should face up when using a jigsaw?
With a standard jigsaw blade, put the decorative side down, because the blade cuts on the upstroke. If you use a reverse-tooth blade, the decorative side can face up. Test on an offcut first.
Why does my vinyl flooring fray when I cut it?
Usually the blade is blunt or too coarse, or the decorative side is facing the wrong way. Too high a speed also creates heat and ragged edges. A sharp, fine blade and tape on the cutting line usually solve it.
Can I cut vinyl and laminate with the same saw blade?
A fine laminate blade with TCG teeth works for both. Laminate does blunt the blade faster because of its hard wear layer, so on a large project a separate sharp blade for vinyl is worth having.
In short: cutting vinyl flooring
Score and snap straight cuts where the material allows it, use a mitre saw for end cuts and a jigsaw for curves and notches. Always put the decorative side where the teeth enter, use a sharp fine blade at a moderate speed, and leave the expansion gap given in the fitting instructions.
