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Choosing a pruning saw: which saw should you use for which branch?
For branches up to a few centimetres thick, a pair of secateurs or a pruning saw with coarse teeth is all you need. Thicker branches go faster with a reciprocating saw fitted with a pruning blade or a chainsaw, and for branches above your head you use a pole saw with a telescopic handle. Choose the saw based on how thick the branch is, how high it is and how much pruning you do.
What will you learn in this article?
- What types of pruning saw are there?
- What to look for when choosing a pruning saw
- How do you cut a thick branch without tearing the bark?
- Cutting branches safely
- When can you prune branches?
- Looking after your pruning saw
- Frequently asked questions about pruning saws
- In short: choosing a pruning saw
What types of pruning saw are there?
| Saw | Branch thickness (rough guide) | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|---|
| Secateurs | Thin twigs | Quick, clean cut | Not for thicker branches |
| Hand saw or pruning saw | Thin to medium branches | Light, quiet, no battery needed | Hard work if you have a lot to cut |
| Reciprocating saw with pruning blade | Medium to thick branches | Fast, also useful for demolition work | Vibrates, less precise |
| Telescopic pole saw | Branches out of reach | Cut from the ground, no ladder | Heavy at the end of the pole |
| Chainsaw | Thick branches and trunks | Fastest option | Needs experience and protective clothing |
The branch thickness a saw can handle varies by model, so check the specifications of the saw you are considering before you buy.
Hand saw and pruning saw
A pruning saw is a hand saw with a narrow blade and coarse teeth that cut on the pull stroke. It is light and precise to use, you can still hear the birds and you do not need a battery. A folding saw fits in your pocket. If you only cut a few branches a year, this is often all you need.
Reciprocating saw with pruning blade
A reciprocating saw (also called a sabre saw) is very useful in the garden. With a dedicated pruning blade with coarse teeth, it cuts quickly through green branches. You can rest the shoe of the saw against the branch so it vibrates less. The downside is that you have less control than with a hand saw, and the saw can bounce on a loose branch. A cordless reciprocating saw, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, also comes in handy for demolition work and cutting up pallets.
Telescopic pole saw
For branches high in a tree or a tall hedge, use a saw on an extendable pole. There are manual versions and powered versions with a small chainsaw at the end (a pole pruner). You keep both feet on the ground, which is safer than working from a ladder.
Chainsaw
For thick branches and cutting up fallen limbs, a chainsaw is the fastest option. A cordless chainsaw is quieter and lighter than a petrol model and suits most garden jobs. Never use a chainsaw above shoulder height or from a ladder.
What to look for when choosing a pruning saw
Branch thickness
Think about which branches you usually cut. If they are thinner than your thumb, secateurs will do. For anything thicker you need a saw. Choose a blade that is clearly longer than the diameter of the branch, so you can cut with long strokes.
Teeth
Fresh, green wood is wet and tough, and fine teeth soon clog up with sawdust. That is why a pruning blade has coarse, widely spaced teeth. Japanese pull saws for pruning often have triple-ground teeth that cut quickly and cleanly. Fine teeth are meant for dry timber, sheet materials and plastic, not for pruning.
Reach
If the branches are high up, go for a telescopic pole. A longer pole is heavier to handle, though. Choose a saw you can hold well balanced with two hands.
Weight and ease of use
Pruning often means working above your head or with outstretched arms. A light saw is less tiring and therefore safer.
How do you cut a thick branch without tearing the bark?
Use the three-cut method:
- About 20 to 30 cm from the trunk, make an undercut on the underside of the branch, roughly a third of the way through.
- A little further out from the trunk, cut through the branch from above. The branch breaks off without tearing the bark down the trunk.
- Cut off the remaining stub just outside the branch collar, the swollen ring where the branch joins the trunk. Do not cut flush with the trunk, as the tree will heal less well.
For more on timing and technique, see our guide on how to prune trees.
Cutting branches safely
- Wear work gloves, safety glasses and, with powered saws, ear defenders.
- If you work beneath branches, wear a helmet. Falling branches are heavier than you think.
- Make sure nobody is standing under the branch.
- Work from the ground with a pole saw rather than from a ladder. If you do need a ladder, set it up firmly, have someone hold it and never use a chainsaw from a ladder.
- Watch out for overhead power lines near trees along the road or by the house. If you are working anywhere near them, call in a professional.
- Large branches or trees you cannot easily assess are a job for a qualified tree surgeon.
When can you prune branches?
Many trees and shrubs are pruned in winter or early spring, but it varies by species. During the bird nesting season, which in the UK runs roughly from March to August, take extra care. It is an offence to damage or destroy an active nest, so always check the tree or hedge carefully before you start cutting. Before felling or heavily cutting back a tree, check with your local council whether it is covered by a Tree Preservation Order or stands in a conservation area.
Looking after your pruning saw
- Clean the blade after use. Sap and resin blunt the teeth and make the blade sticky.
- Dry the blade and give it a thin coat of oil against rust.
- Replace a blunt or bent blade. Many pruning saw blades have hardened teeth that you cannot sharpen yourself.
- Have a chainsaw chain sharpened, or sharpen it yourself with the correct file, and keep the chain tension and oil level right.
Frequently asked questions about pruning saws
Is a reciprocating saw suitable for pruning?
Yes. With a pruning blade with coarse teeth, a reciprocating saw works well on medium to thick branches. Rest the shoe against the branch to reduce vibration and hold the saw with both hands. For precise pruning cuts close to the trunk, a hand saw is often more pleasant to use.
Which saw should I use for branches above 3 metres?
Use a telescopic pole saw or pole pruner so you can work from the ground. If the branch is very thick or hangs over a roof, fence or cables, call in a tree surgeon.
Can I cut green and dry wood with the same saw?
You can, but the saw will not work equally well in both. Coarse pruning teeth are designed for wet, green wood. Dry wood cuts more cleanly with finer teeth.
Why does my saw get stuck in the branch?
The branch bends under its own weight and pinches the cut closed. Make a short cut from underneath first and then cut from above, as in the three-cut method. Support loose branches that you are cutting up on the ground.
In short: choosing a pruning saw
Choose a hand saw or pruning saw for the occasional branch, a reciprocating saw with a pruning blade for thicker branches and a pole saw for high work. Use coarse teeth for green wood, cut thick branches with the three-cut method and work from the ground rather than a ladder. Look out for nesting birds in spring and summer, and leave large trees to a professional.
