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Sanding a Tabletop: Which Sander and Which Grits Should You Use?
For a tabletop, a random orbit sander is the best choice: it removes material quickly and leaves very few scratches. Start with 80 grit if there is old varnish or deep scratches, go on to 120 and finish with 180 to 240. Then make the top completely dust-free and finish it with oil, wax or varnish.
Sanding a tabletop well comes down to three things: the right sander, the right grit sequence and a careful hand on veneered tops.
What will you learn in this article?
- Which sander is best for a tabletop?
- Which grits should you use to sand a tabletop?
- How do you prepare the table for sanding?
- Step by step: how to sand a tabletop
- How do you avoid sanding through a veneered tabletop?
- How do you finish a sanded tabletop?
- What safety precautions should you take when sanding?
- Common mistakes when sanding a tabletop
- Frequently asked questions about sanding a tabletop
- In short: sanding a tabletop
Which sander is best for a tabletop?
The choice depends on the condition and size of the top. For most tables one sander is enough, with a bit of hand sanding for the edges and legs.
| Sander | Suitable for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Random orbit sander | The whole top, removing varnish and fine finishing | The round pad cannot reach into corners |
| Orbital sander | Fine finishing, straight edges | Removes material slowly |
| Detail sander | Corners, narrow edges, legs | Too small for a whole tabletop |
| Belt sander | Thick layers of paint, solid and rough tops | Quickly leaves deep marks, not for veneer |
A random orbit sander spins and vibrates at the same time, so there is no fixed scratch pattern. If you would rather work without a cable, a cordless sander from the Maxxpack 18V range is handy: you can move around the table easily without a lead dragging across the freshly sanded surface.
Should you sand a tabletop by hand or with a sander?
Sanding by hand is possible, but it takes a long time on a large top. Hand sanding works well for legs, moulded edges and the final fine pass. Use a sanding block so the pressure is spread evenly and you do not sand hollows. On the top itself, a sander gives a flatter result.
Which grits should you use to sand a tabletop?
Always work from coarse to fine and never skip more than one step. Each grit has to remove the scratches left by the previous one.
- 60 to 80 grit: removing old varnish, paint or deep scratches. Only needed if the top is badly damaged.
- 120 grit: removing the scratches from the coarse grit and levelling the wood.
- 180 grit: smoothing before oil or stain.
- 240 grit: extra fine for varnish, or between two coats of varnish.
- 320 to 400 grit: light sanding between coats of varnish, by hand or at low speed.
A table in good condition that has just gone dull does not need coarse sanding. Start at 120 or even 180.
How do you prepare the table for sanding?
Good preparation saves work and prevents damage.
- Remove loose parts such as extension leaves and fittings.
- Check the top for loose glue joints, cracks and holes. Fill holes with wood filler and let it cure completely before you sand.
- Set the table up firmly, ideally on trestles or somewhere you can get all the way round it.
- Cover the room or work outside. Fine wood dust gets everywhere.
Is the old finish safe to sand?
On older furniture, particularly pieces painted before 1992, the old paint may contain lead. If you are unsure, use a lead test kit from a DIY store or have the coating removed professionally. Never dry sand a coating that contains lead yourself.
Step by step: how to sand a tabletop
Fit the first disc
Fit a sanding disc with the coarsest grit you need and connect the dust extraction or a vacuum.
Start and stop on the surface
Place the sander on the top before you switch it on, and only lift it once it has stopped. That prevents hollows and scratches at the edge.
Sand in overlapping passes
Move steadily over the top in overlapping passes. Do not push: the weight of the sander is enough.
Keep the sander flat
Keep the sander flat, including at the edges. Tilting it rounds the edges over.
Work through the grits
Vacuum the dust and move on to the next grit. Repeat until you reach the final grit.
Finish with the grain
Do the final pass with the grain. With a random orbit sander this matters less, but with hand sanding and an orbital sander it does.
Sand the edges and legs
Sand the edges and legs with a detail sander or by hand.
With a sander and three grits, an average dining table usually takes half a day to a full day, including preparation. Stripping off old varnish takes the most time.
How do you sand the table legs and edges?
Legs are often round or shaped. Wrap abrasive paper around a piece of foam or use a sanding sponge so it follows the shape. For straight legs and the sides of the top, a detail sander works well. Do the legs first, so no more dust falls on the top once it is finished.
How do you avoid sanding through a veneered tabletop?
Many tables have a thin layer of veneer on chipboard or MDF. Look at the end grain or underneath: if you see a thin layer of wood on top of another material, it is veneer. Sand it with care:
- Do not use a belt sander and nothing coarser than 120 grit.
- Use light pressure and keep moving. Never stay in one place.
- Take extra care at the edges, where veneer wears through fastest.
- To remove thick old varnish, use a chemical stripper instead and only sand lightly afterwards.
How do you finish a sanded tabletop?
After sanding, the top must be completely dust-free. Vacuum it with a soft brush attachment, then wipe it with a slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Let it dry thoroughly.
Oil, wax or varnish: which should you choose?
| Finish | Look | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|
| Oil | Natural, you can still feel the wood | Top up now and then; small marks are easy to repair |
| Wax | Soft sheen | Sensitive to water and heat, needs refreshing more often |
| Varnish | Sealed, hard-wearing surface | Lasts a long time, but damage is hard to repair locally |
| Stain | Changes the colour | Always protect it with varnish or oil on top |
For a dining table that gets a lot of use, most people choose hardwax oil or varnish. With varnish, sand lightly between coats with 240 to 320 grit and make the top dust-free again.
What safety precautions should you take when sanding?
Wood dust is harmful to your lungs, especially with long sanding sessions and with hardwoods.
- Wear a dust mask rated at least FFP2.
- Use safety glasses and ear defenders.
- Connect the sander to a vacuum or use the dust bag.
- Make sure the room is well ventilated.
- On a corded sander, unplug it before changing the abrasive. On a cordless sander, remove the battery.
Common mistakes when sanding a tabletop
- Jumping too far between grits. The scratches from the coarse grit then stay visible, especially after varnishing.
- Pressing too hard. The sander slows down and sands unevenly.
- Carrying on with worn abrasive. It gets hot and leaves streaks.
- Leaving dust behind before finishing. Every speck becomes a bump in the varnish.
Frequently asked questions about sanding a tabletop
Which sander is best for a tabletop?
A random orbit sander is the best choice for most tabletops. It removes varnish quickly and leaves an even scratch pattern. For corners and legs, add a detail sander or some hand sanding.
Which grit should you finish with before varnishing?
Usually finish with 180 to 240 grit. Between coats of varnish, sand lightly with 240 to 320. Sanding finer than necessary can reduce how well oil penetrates, so check the advice on the tin as well.
Can you sand a veneered tabletop?
Yes, but carefully. Do not start coarser than 120 grit, use light pressure and keep a close eye on the edges. With a thick layer of old varnish, stripping it chemically and then sanding lightly is the safer option.
In short: sanding a tabletop
Use a random orbit sander for the top and a detail sander or hand sanding for the edges and legs. Work from 80 or 120 grit up to 180 to 240 without skipping steps, and go gently on veneer. Remove every trace of dust, then finish the top with oil, wax or varnish.
