6 minute read -
Cutting a Kitchen Worktop: The Right Saw, Blade and Face Up
To cut a kitchen worktop straight, use a circular saw or a plunge saw on a guide rail. For the cut-out for a sink or hob, use a jigsaw. On worktops with a laminate surface, fit a fine carbide-tipped blade with triple-chip teeth and position the good face so that any chipping ends up on the underside.
Composite, quartz and natural stone worktops cannot be cut with ordinary saws, so have those made to size. The guide below covers cutting a worktop in laminate and solid wood yourself.
What will you learn in this article?
- Which saw should you use for which worktop?
- Which saw blade should you choose?
- Which side should face up when cutting?
- Step by step: cutting a worktop to size
- How do you cut out a sink or hob opening?
- Sealing cut edges against moisture
- Cutting safely
- Cut it yourself or have it done?
- Frequently asked questions about cutting a worktop
- In short: cutting a worktop
Which saw should you use for which worktop?
| Worktop material | Straight cuts | Cut-outs | DIY job? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chipboard with a laminate surface (HPL or laminate) | Circular saw or plunge saw with rail | Jigsaw | Yes |
| Solid wood | Circular saw or plunge saw with rail | Jigsaw | Yes |
| Compact laminate (solid HPL) | Plunge saw with a special blade | Router, or leave it to a pro | Tricky |
| Composite, quartz, natural stone, ceramic | Water-cooled diamond saw | Waterjet or diamond tooling | Leave it to a pro |
Circular saw or plunge saw for straight cuts
For shortening a worktop and making long straight cuts, a plunge saw on a guide rail is the best choice. The rail keeps the saw straight, and the anti-splinter strip along the rail holds the surface layer down. A handheld circular saw also works, but clamp a straight batten or rail in place as a guide. A circular saw from the Maxxpack 18V range is handy if you are cutting in the kitchen yourself, with no cable trailing across the worktop.
Jigsaw for cut-outs and details
Use the jigsaw for the sink cut-out, the hob cut-out or a notch around a chimney breast or boxing. Choose a fine blade for laminate or wood. A jigsaw is less suited to long straight cuts: in a thick worktop the blade can wander, leaving a cut that is out of square.
Which saw blade should you choose?
- Laminate surface (HPL, laminate): a carbide-tipped circular saw blade with triple-chip (TCG) teeth and a high tooth count. The right number of teeth depends on the blade diameter, so check the manual of your saw and the blade packaging for the recommended blade.
- Solid wood: a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade for clean crosscuts.
- Jigsaw: a fine blade for laminate, or a down-cut blade (reverse teeth) if you want to cut with the good face up.
A sharp blade matters more than an expensive one. A blunt blade tears the surface layer.
Which side should face up when cutting?
This decides whether chipping ends up on the visible face or underneath:
- Handheld circular saw and plunge saw: the blade cuts upwards through the material. Lay the worktop good face down. If you use a rail with an anti-splinter strip, the good face can be up.
- Jigsaw with a standard blade: it cuts on the upstroke. Lay it good face down, or use a down-cut blade and cut with the good face up.
- Table saw or mitre saw: the blade cuts downwards into the workpiece, so good face up.
If in doubt, run masking tape along the cutting line and mark the line on the tape in pencil. That reduces chipping even further.
Step by step: cutting a worktop to size
Measure twice
Walls are rarely square. Measure the length at the front and at the back, and check the angle in the corner.
Mark the cut
Draw the line on the side that faces up while you cut.
Support the worktop
Support the worktop along its full length, for example on trestles with two battens. Make sure the offcut cannot snap off at the end of the cut.
Clamp the rail or guide
Clamp the guide rail or a straight batten in place along the line.
Cut in one steady pass
Push the saw through in one calm, continuous movement. Do not stop halfway.
Sand the edge lightly
Sand the cut edge lightly with fine sandpaper to take off any sharp edges on the laminate.
How do you cut out a sink or hob opening?
- Use the template supplied with the sink or hob, or mark out the opening using the dimensions in the manual.
- Drill a hole inside the line at each corner, large enough for the jigsaw blade.
- Cut from hole to hole along the line.
- Before the last cut, screw a batten across the opening so the loose piece cannot drop and tear the edge with it.
- Test-fit the sink or hob and trim where needed.
Sealing cut edges against moisture
Chipboard absorbs water and then swells. Seal every cut edge:
- Glue edging strip to visible ends.
- Treat the cut edges of openings with a suitable sealant, varnish or edge sealer, especially around the sink and the dishwasher.
- Fit the sink on a sealing strip or bed it in sealant as the manual describes.
On solid wood, treat the cut edge with the same oil or varnish as the rest of the worktop.
Cutting safely
Wear safety glasses and ear defenders, and connect a vacuum extractor to the saw if you can. Clamp the workpiece rather than holding it by hand. Take the battery out whenever you change a blade.
Cut it yourself or have it done?
Cutting it yourself works well with laminate-faced chipboard and with solid wood, as long as you have a good saw, a rail and a sharp blade. Practise on an offcut first. Have the worktop made to size for composite, quartz, natural stone and ceramic, for complex mitre joints, and if you do not have a guide rail.
Frequently asked questions about cutting a worktop
Can you cut a worktop with a jigsaw?
For cut-outs, yes. For long straight cuts a jigsaw is less suitable, because the blade can wander in thick material. Use a plunge saw or circular saw with a guide instead.
How do you stop a worktop chipping when you cut it?
Use a sharp blade with plenty of teeth, put the good face on the side where the blade enters the material and tape the cutting line. A rail with an anti-splinter strip gives the neatest result.
How many teeth should a saw blade for a worktop have?
The more teeth, the finer the cut. For laminate surfaces, a blade with triple-chip teeth and a high tooth count is the usual choice, with the exact number depending on the diameter of your saw blade.
Can I cut a composite worktop myself?
We do not recommend it. Composite and natural stone need a water-cooled diamond saw, and cutting them releases harmful quartz dust. Have the worktop cut to size by the supplier or a stonemason.
In short: cutting a worktop
Make straight cuts with a plunge saw or circular saw on a rail, and cut-outs with a jigsaw. Use a sharp, fine-toothed blade, check which side should face up and tape the cutting line. Seal every cut edge against moisture, and have stone or composite worktops cut to size by a professional.
