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Cutting Aluminium: Which Saw and Which Blade Should You Choose?
You cut aluminium with a blade made specifically for non-ferrous metals. For straight cuts in profiles, tube and strip, a mitre saw or circular saw fitted with that kind of blade is the quickest and neatest option. For curves and cut-outs, use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade.
Whatever saw you use for cutting aluminium, clamp the workpiece firmly, wear safety glasses and deburr the cut edge when you have finished.
What will you learn in this article?
- When do you need to cut aluminium?
- Which saw can you use to cut aluminium?
- Which blade should you use for aluminium?
- Do you need to cool aluminium while cutting?
- Can you cut aluminium with an angle grinder?
- How to cut an aluminium profile straight, step by step
- Cutting aluminium safely
- Common mistakes when cutting aluminium
- Frequently asked questions about cutting aluminium
- In short: cutting aluminium
When do you need to cut aluminium?
Aluminium turns up around the house more often than you might think: curtain tracks, door thresholds and transition strips, drawer runners, angle profiles, tube for a frame or a sheet for a cover panel. Most of the time it is a thin-walled profile that needs cutting to length. Aluminium is softer than steel, but it behaves differently from wood. It can smear, bind and leave burrs if you use the wrong blade or the wrong technique.
Which saw can you use to cut aluminium?
| Saw | Suitable for | Blade |
|---|---|---|
| Mitre saw | Cutting profiles, tube and strip square or at an angle | Blade for non-ferrous metals or aluminium |
| Circular saw | Straight cuts in aluminium sheet | Blade for non-ferrous metals or aluminium |
| Jigsaw | Curves, cut-outs, thin sheet | Metal-cutting blade (HSS or bi-metal) with fine teeth |
| Reciprocating saw | Rough cutting and demolition work | Metal-cutting blade |
| Hacksaw | The odd length of tube or track, a few cuts | Fine metal-cutting blade |
Cutting aluminium with a mitre saw
For profiles and tube, a mitre saw is the most comfortable tool. You can cut square or at an angle, and the cuts are straight and repeatable. Never use the standard wood blade. Fit a carbide-tipped blade for aluminium or non-ferrous metals instead. That type of blade has a high tooth count and a negative or neutral hook angle, so the teeth do not snag in the metal. Batavia offers a cordless mitre saw on the Maxxpack 18V platform. Check the manual to see if your saw is suitable for non-ferrous metals and which blades you are allowed to fit.
Cutting aluminium with a circular saw
For aluminium sheet, a circular saw with a non-ferrous blade works well. Clamp a guide rail or straight edge in place, set the cutting depth so the blade comes out a few millimetres below the sheet, and feed the saw through steadily. A cordless circular saw from the Maxxpack 18V range is handy for loose sheets on site, provided the blade is suitable for metal.
Cutting aluminium with a jigsaw
A jigsaw lets you cut out openings, curves and short cuts in thin aluminium. Choose a metal-cutting blade with fine teeth. Switch off the pendulum action, select a medium speed and press the base plate firmly onto the material. With thin sheet it helps to clamp the aluminium onto a piece of timber or plywood and cut through both. That stops the sheet vibrating and tearing.
Which blade should you use for aluminium?
The rule of thumb: the thinner the material, the finer the teeth. There should always be at least two or three teeth in the wall of the profile at any one time. If the teeth are too coarse for a thin wall, they catch, and the profile can bend or be wrenched out of your hand.
- Thin-walled profile and sheet: fine teeth.
- Thicker solid aluminium: slightly coarser teeth with more room for the chips.
- Circular saw and mitre saw: carbide-tipped blade for non-ferrous metals, often with a triple-chip tooth and a negative hook angle.
- Jigsaw and reciprocating saw: HSS or bi-metal metal-cutting blade.
Do you need to cool aluminium while cutting?
Aluminium heats up as you cut and can then start sticking to the teeth. For a few cuts in a thin profile this is rarely a problem. If you are cutting thicker material or making lots of cuts in a row, use a little cutting oil or a lubricant suitable for aluminium. It keeps the blade clean and the cut smooth. Degrease the workpiece afterwards if you plan to glue or paint it.
Can you cut aluminium with an angle grinder?
You can, but it is not the neatest method. A standard steel cutting disc clogs quickly on aluminium, then runs hot and becomes less safe. If you do use an angle grinder, choose a disc that is clearly marked as suitable for aluminium or non-ferrous metals. For clean, square cuts a mitre saw is the better choice.
How to cut an aluminium profile straight, step by step
Mark the length
Measure the length and mark it with a thin scribed line, or a pencil line on a piece of masking tape.
Clamp the profile
Clamp the profile firmly. A hollow profile can flex as you cut, so put a snug piece of wood inside or underneath it.
Start the saw
Let the saw reach full speed before you start cutting.
Cut with light pressure
Cut with steady, light pressure. Forcing the saw causes heat and burrs.
Let the blade stop
Let the blade stop completely before you lift the saw.
Deburr the cut
Deburr the cut with a file, a deburring tool or fine abrasive paper.
You can cut a curtain track or threshold to size in a few minutes this way. With a curtain track, remove the end caps and runners first.
Cutting aluminium safely
- Wear safety glasses. Aluminium chips are hot and sharp and fly in every direction.
- Use ear defenders, as cutting metal is noisy.
- Do not wear loose gloves near a spinning blade. Do wear gloves to handle the workpiece after cutting, because of the sharp edges.
- Keep your hands out of the line of the cut and always clamp small pieces.
- Remove the battery or unplug the saw before you change the blade.
Common mistakes when cutting aluminium
- Using a wood blade, so the teeth catch and can break off.
- Using teeth that are too coarse on a thin profile.
- Not clamping the profile, so the blade drags it along.
- Pushing too hard, so the blade overheats and aluminium sticks to the teeth.
- Not deburring the cut, so parts do not slide together properly.
Frequently asked questions about cutting aluminium
Can you cut aluminium with a wood blade?
It is not recommended. A wood blade has a positive hook angle, so the teeth bite into the aluminium. The profile can then kick away and teeth can break off. Use a blade for non-ferrous metals.
What is the best saw for an aluminium profile?
A mitre saw with an aluminium blade gives the straightest and quickest cuts. If you only need a few cuts, a hacksaw with a fine blade and a mitre box will do the job.
How do you remove burrs from aluminium?
Use a flat file, a deburring tool or fine abrasive paper. Work on both the outside and the inside of the profile until the edge feels smooth.
Can you shorten an aluminium threshold with a jigsaw?
Yes, with a fine metal-cutting blade and the pendulum action switched off. Clamp the threshold to a board so it does not vibrate, then smooth the cut with a file.
In short: cutting aluminium
Straight cuts in aluminium profiles are best made with a mitre saw or circular saw fitted with a blade for non-ferrous metals. For curves and cut-outs, use a jigsaw with a fine metal-cutting blade. Clamp the workpiece, cut without forcing, lubricate thicker material and deburr the cut.
