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Cutting Skirting Board Mitres: Which Saw to Use
7 minute read - Cutting Skirting Board Mitres: Which Saw to Choose and How to Do It For cutting skirting board, a mitre saw is the best choice: you set the angle precisely and get clean, straight cuts with very little breakout. If you only have a few lengths to cut, a mitre box and handsaw will do. A jigsaw also works, but gives less tidy mitres and needs more finishing. Below you will find how the different saws compare, which blade to fit, how to measure up and how to cut skirting board mitres for internal and external corners that close up neatly. What will you learn in this article? Which saw is best for skirting board? Which saw blade should you use for skirting board? How do you measure and mark skirting board? How do you cut an internal and an external corner? What if the corner is not square? How to cut skirting board in 5 steps Why don't my skirting board corners close up? Tips if you are not very experienced Frequently asked questions about cutting skirting board In short: cutting skirting board mitres Which saw is best for skirting board? There are four common ways to cut skirting board. They differ in accuracy, speed and cost. Saw Accuracy Suitable for Drawback Mitre saw High All skirting, lots of corners, tall skirting Bigger investment, takes up space Mitre box and handsaw Reasonable Low skirting, a few corners Fixed angles only, takes longer Adjustable hand mitre saw Good Taller skirting too, adjustable angle Manual work, slower Jigsaw Moderate Cut-outs, the occasional corner Blade can drift, edges fray more easily Mitre saw With a mitre saw you set the turntable to the right angle and cut through the skirting in one movement. The cuts are straight and repeatable, which helps when you are doing a whole room. Taller skirting usually fits too, especially on a sliding mitre saw. A cordless mitre saw from the Maxxpack 18V range can be taken to the room you are working in, without an extension lead. Mitre box or hand mitre saw A mitre box has fixed slots for 45 and 90 degrees. That works for low skirting and rooms with square corners. An adjustable hand mitre saw can be set for height and angle, so you can also cut taller skirting and corners that are not square. Both are inexpensive and good for beginners, but they take more time. Jigsaw If you already own a jigsaw, you can use it to cut skirting board. Tilt the base plate to 45 degrees and use a guide or mitre fence. Fit a fine-toothed, straight-cutting blade and switch the pendulum action off. Expect to tidy up the corners slightly with a file or sanding block. For cut-outs around a door frame or a pipe, on the other hand, a jigsaw is very handy. Which saw blade should you use for skirting board? For a mitre saw, choose a blade with a high tooth count for a fine finish. A fine crosscut blade causes less breakout on the visible face of the skirting. That applies to pine skirting, but even more so to MDF skirting with a painted or foil-wrapped surface. A coarse construction blade with few teeth tears the surface layer more easily. With a jigsaw, use a fine wood blade with small teeth. If the top edge frays, a strip of masking tape over the cutting line helps. How do you measure and mark skirting board? Accurate measuring is half the job. This is how to go about it: Measure along the wall at the height where the skirting will sit, not across the floor in the middle of the room. Internal corner: the measurement on the wall is the length at the back of the skirting (the short side). External corner: the measurement on the wall is the length at the back; the front of the skirting ends up longer. Mark the direction of the mitre with an arrow or line on the back. That way you will not cut the angle the wrong way by mistake. To measure angles, use a sliding bevel or a digital angle finder. A sliding bevel has a pivoting blade, so you can copy any angle. With a digital angle finder you read the angle directly and set your mitre saw to match. How do you cut an internal and an external corner? For a square corner of 90 degrees, cut both pieces of skirting at a 45-degree mitre. Together they make 90 degrees. Internal corner: the back of the skirting is longer than the front, so the visible face is set back. External corner: the front of the skirting is longer than the back, so the visible face projects. Place the skirting on the mitre saw the way it will sit against the wall: bottom edge on the table and back against the fence. That way the angle is always right and you do not have to work it out. Tip: Write "IN" or "OUT" on the back of each piece in pencil before you cut. It is the simplest way to avoid cutting a mitre the wrong way round. What if the corner is not square? Walls are rarely exactly 90 degrees. Measure the actual angle and divide it by two. If you measure an internal corner of 92 degrees, for example, cut both pieces at 46 degrees. For an external corner of 88 degrees, it becomes 44 degrees. If in doubt, first cut two short test pieces from an offcut and hold them in the corner. If you see a gap at the front or the back, adjust the angle by half a degree and try again. How to cut skirting board in 5 steps 1 Start in the trickiest corner Work your way round the room from there, so you can still cut the last length to fit. 2 Cut the mitre first, the length second Cut the angle at one end, hold the skirting in place and mark the other end. 3 Cut slightly long It is better to take off a millimetre twice than to cut a piece too short. 4 Dry fit every length Check the joint before you fix the skirting in place. 5 Tidy up small gaps Use a wood file or sanding block for small differences. On painted skirting, fill a hairline gap with decorator's caulk. Why don't my skirting board corners close up? Gaps in corners usually have one of these causes: The corner is not 90 degrees. Measure the real angle and divide it by two. The wall is not flat or not plumb. The skirting then closes at the bottom but not at the top. Sanding a little off the back helps. The skirting was not tight against the fence. Always hold it firmly flat and against the fence. The blade is flexing. This happens more easily with handsaws and jigsaws. Cut steadily and without forcing it. Tips if you are not very experienced Start with a mitre box or a mitre saw, as both force the correct angle. Practise first on an offcut so you can see what internal and external corners look like. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection while cutting, and keep your hands well clear of the blade. Safety first: Wait until the blade has stopped completely before you raise the saw head or remove the skirting. Frequently asked questions about cutting skirting board Can I cut skirting board with an ordinary handsaw? Yes, but a clean 45 degrees is hard without a guide. Use a mitre box so the saw stays straight. A fine saw with small teeth gives the neatest edge. Should I cut skirting board flat or upright? On a mitre saw, you usually cut skirting upright against the fence, the way it stands against the wall. You then only need to set the turntable. If the skirting does not fit upright under the blade, you can lay it flat and tilt the saw head, but that takes more calculation. Which saw do I need for tall skirting? For tall skirting you need a saw with enough cutting height. A sliding mitre saw or an adjustable hand mitre saw is the most suitable. For a mitre saw, check the maximum cutting height at 90 and 45 degrees in the specifications. How do I cut skirting board at a door frame? Cut the skirting square where it meets the frame. If it needs a notch, mark it out and cut it with a jigsaw or a multi-tool. Finish the edge with a file. In short: cutting skirting board mitres A mitre saw gives the most accurate skirting board mitres, while a mitre box and handsaw are fine for a few low lengths. Use a fine blade, measure along the wall and place the skirting on the saw the way it sits against the wall. For corners that are not square, measure the real angle and halve it. Shop saws
Read moreHow to Cut Perspex: Best Saw, Blade and Settings
7 minute read - How to Cut Perspex and Acrylic Sheet: The Right Saw, Blade and Settings The best way to cut Perspex is with a jigsaw fitted with a fine-toothed blade for plastics or non-ferrous metal, set to a medium speed with the pendulum action switched off. For long straight cuts in thicker sheets, a circular saw with a fine tungsten carbide-tipped (TCT) blade works better. Leave the protective film on the sheet, clamp it firmly and cut at a steady pace, so the acrylic sheet does not melt or crack. Below you will find how to choose your saw and blade, which settings to use and how to finish the edge so it looks clean and clear. What will you learn in this article? Why is Perspex tricky to cut? Cast or extruded acrylic: does it matter? Which saw is best for Perspex? Which blade should you use for Perspex? How should you set up your jigsaw for Perspex? How to cut Perspex in 6 steps How do you stop Perspex melting or cracking? Can you cut Perspex without a saw? How do you finish a cut edge on Perspex? What protective equipment do you need? Frequently asked questions about cutting Perspex In short: cutting Perspex Why is Perspex tricky to cut? Perspex and Plexiglas are brand names for acrylic (PMMA). The material is hard and brittle. With teeth that are too coarse or too much pressure, you get hairline cracks or a corner snaps off. With a blunt blade or too much friction, the blade heats up and the acrylic melts, then welds itself back together behind the blade. What you are looking for is a pace at which the blade produces clean chips without getting hot. Cast or extruded acrylic: does it matter? Yes. There are two types of acrylic sheet: Cast acrylic (GS) is slightly harder and copes better with heat. It is easier to cut, drill and polish. Extruded acrylic (XT) is cheaper, but softens more quickly. It is therefore more likely to melt when the blade warms up. If you do not know which type you have, check the protective film or ask your supplier. With extruded acrylic, cut a little more gently and keep the blade cool. Which saw is best for Perspex? The choice depends on the thickness of the sheet and the type of cut. Saw Suitable for Watch out for Jigsaw Curves, cut-outs, straight cuts in thin and medium sheets Pendulum off, fine blade, support the sheet well Circular saw Long straight cuts, thicker sheets Fine-toothed TCT blade, guide rail or batten Coping saw or fretsaw Small pieces and fine shapes Slow, light pressure Acrylic cutter (score and snap) Thin sheets, straight lines Only works on thin sheets For most jobs at home, a jigsaw is the most practical choice. A cordless jigsaw from the Maxxpack 18V range has no cable to get in the way, so you can move around the sheet easily. For long straight lengths, use a cordless circular saw with a suitable blade. Which blade should you use for Perspex? Choose a blade with fine teeth. For a jigsaw, blades for plastics or for non-ferrous metal (such as aluminium) are a good choice. They have small teeth with little set, which keeps the cut smooth. Coarse wood blades with large, set teeth are unsuitable: they snatch at the material and cause cracks. For a circular saw, choose a TCT blade with a high tooth count, preferably one the manufacturer recommends for plastics or non-ferrous metal. Always use a sharp blade. A blunt blade heats up faster, and that is when the acrylic melts. How should you set up your jigsaw for Perspex? Pendulum action off (setting 0). The pendulum action makes the saw faster in wood, but in acrylic it causes vibration, chipping and a rough edge. Medium speed. Start on a middle setting and make a test cut in an offcut. If the acrylic melts, turn the speed down or feed the saw a little faster. If you see small cracks or chips, turn the speed up slightly and reduce the pressure. Clean, smooth base plate. A scratch under the base plate means a scratch on your sheet. Leave the protective film on or put masking tape under the base plate. With a circular saw, set the cutting depth so the blade only protrudes a few millimetres below the sheet. This reduces vibration. How to cut Perspex in 6 steps 1 Mark out on the film Leave the protective film on and draw your line on it. If there is no film, run masking tape along the cutting line. 2 Support the sheet Lay the sheet flat on a sturdy workbench or on a sacrificial board. The part you are cutting off needs support too, otherwise it will snap off at the end of the cut. 3 Clamp it down Secure the sheet with clamps. Put a piece of wood or card between the clamp and the sheet to avoid pressure marks. 4 Start off the sheet Switch the saw on before the blade touches the material. Starting with the blade in the material increases the risk of a crack. 5 Cut at an even pace Do not push hard. Let the blade do the work and keep a constant pace. With thick sheets, you can stop now and then to let the blade cool. 6 Remove the film last Only peel off the film once you have finished. That way the sheet stays free of scratches while you finish the edges. Tip: Always make a test cut in an offcut of the same sheet first. It tells you more about the right speed than any setting chart. How do you stop Perspex melting or cracking? These are the most common mistakes: Blunt or coarse blade. Use a new, fine blade. Pendulum action on. Always switch it off. Too much pressure. Pushing hard creates heat and stress in the sheet. Feeding too slowly at high speed. The blade then rubs more than it cuts, and the heat melts the plastic. A sheet that vibrates. Clamp closer to the cutting line and support both sides. If it still melts, cut in short sections with pauses so the blade can cool down. Can you cut Perspex without a saw? You can score and snap thin sheets. Draw an acrylic cutter along a steel rule several times until there is a clear groove. Then place the groove on the edge of the table and press down on the overhanging part with one short, firm movement. This only works on thin sheets and straight lines. For lots of identical pieces or complicated shapes, having the acrylic cut to size or laser cut by a supplier is often quicker. How do you finish a cut edge on Perspex? After cutting, the edge is matt and sometimes a little rough. This is how you get a neat edge: Deburr. Remove sharp edges with a fine file or a card scraper. Sand. Sand the edge with 240 grit paper, then 400 and, if you like, 600 to 800. Wet sanding produces less heat and fewer scratches. Polish. Use a polishing compound for plastics and a soft cloth, or a polishing pad at low speed. High speeds heat the edge up again. Then clean the sheet with lukewarm water and a little washing-up liquid. Do not use glass cleaner containing alcohol or ammonia, as it causes hairline cracks in acrylic. What protective equipment do you need? Always wear safety glasses, because acrylic chips and splinters are sharp. Gloves help when handling the sheet, but do not wear them where they could get near the blade. If you are doing a lot of cutting, use hearing protection and a dust mask. Safety first: Remove the battery from the saw before you change the blade. Frequently asked questions about cutting Perspex Can I cut Perspex with an ordinary wood saw? You can, but the result is rarely neat. A wood saw has large, set teeth that snatch at the material, so there is a high risk of cracks and broken corners. A fine-toothed saw for metal or plastics works much better. What speed should I use for Perspex? A medium speed is the starting point. The right speed depends on the thickness, the type of acrylic and your blade. Make a test cut in an offcut first and adjust: if it melts, go lower; if it cracks, go a little higher with less pressure. How do I cut a round hole in Perspex? First drill a hole inside the circle with a drill bit for plastics or a special acrylic bit. Insert the jigsaw blade into it and cut out the circle slowly. For smaller round holes, you can also use a hole saw at low speed. Why is my cut in Perspex white and rough? This is usually caused by a blunt blade, a speed that is too high or the pendulum action. The acrylic gets warm and melts slightly at the edge. With a sharp blade, the pendulum off and a little less pressure, the cut will be cleaner. Sand and polish the edge afterwards for a clear finish. In short: cutting Perspex Cut Perspex with a jigsaw and a fine blade for plastics or non-ferrous metal, at medium speed with the pendulum action off, or use a circular saw with a fine TCT blade for long straight cuts. Keep the film on, clamp and support the sheet, and cut at a steady pace without forcing it. Finish the edge by sanding and polishing for a clear result. Shop jigsaws
Read moreDismantling and Cutting Pallets: Which Saw?
6 minute read - Dismantling and Cutting Pallets: Which Saw Works Best? The easiest way to take pallets apart is with a reciprocating saw fitted with a bi-metal blade for nail-embedded wood. You cut through the nails between the boards and the blocks, so the boards stay in one piece. You then cut the boards to size with a circular saw, mitre saw or jigsaw. Only use pallets with an HT stamp, and never burn pallet wood indoors. Below you will find which saw to use for each job, a step-by-step guide to dismantling pallets and what to check before you turn pallet wood into a project. What will you learn in this article? Which saw should you use for pallets? Why a reciprocating saw works best Step-by-step: dismantling a pallet with a reciprocating saw Cutting pallet wood to size Which pallets are safe to use? Can you burn pallet wood? Working safely with pallets Frequently asked questions about dismantling pallets In short: dismantling and cutting pallets Which saw should you use for pallets? Saw Use Advantages Disadvantages Reciprocating saw Dismantling pallets, cutting through nails, rough trimming Fits between boards and blocks, cuts through nails Less precise Circular saw Cutting boards to width and length Fast and straight Dangerous if there are hidden nails, no curves Mitre saw Cutting boards square or at an angle Accurate and repeatable Only for loose boards Jigsaw Curves, shapes and cut-outs Versatile Slower, blade drifts in thick wood Handsaw A few cuts without power Cheap, works anywhere Hard work Why a reciprocating saw works best On a reciprocating saw, the blade sits in line with the body of the tool. That means you can slide the blade between a board and a block and cut straight through the nails. With a crowbar or claw hammer the boards often split, while with a reciprocating saw they usually stay intact. A cordless reciprocating saw, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, is also useful afterwards for pruning and demolition jobs in and around the house. Which reciprocating saw blade should you choose? Material: choose a bi-metal (BIM) blade suitable for wood with nails. A blade for wood only will go blunt as soon as it hits a nail. Teeth: a blade with around 10 TPI, or a variable pitch of 10/14 TPI, is common for nail-embedded wood and metal. Thickness: reciprocating saw blades come in thicknesses such as around 0.9 mm and 1.3 mm. A thicker blade is less likely to bend or snap, but is less flexible for cutting flush against a block. A thinner, flexible blade follows the block more closely. Length: choose a blade that is just long enough to reach the nails. A blade that is too long will hit the next board or the ground and is more likely to break. Step-by-step: dismantling a pallet with a reciprocating saw 1 Secure the pallet Stand the pallet upright against a wall or lay it down firmly, so it cannot slide away while you work. 2 Position the blade Slide the blade between the board and the block, with the saw's shoe resting against the block. 3 Cut through the nails Let the saw do the work at a steady pace and hold it with both hands. 4 Repeat at every block Work your way along each block until the board comes free. 5 Remove the nail stubs Knock the cut-off nail stubs out of the board with a nail punch, tap them below the surface, or snip them off if they will not come out. 6 Check for metal Check every board by hand or with a magnet for remaining nails and staples before you do any more cutting. Tip: Run a strong magnet along each board. It finds broken nail shanks and staples that are easy to miss by eye. Cutting pallet wood to size Once the boards are loose and free of nails, cut them to size: Circular saw: for straight cuts along and across the board. Use a TCT blade. Fewer teeth cut quickly but roughly, more teeth leave a neater edge. A general-purpose wood blade with a medium tooth count is usually fine for pallet wood. Mitre saw: when you need lots of boards at the same length, for example for a tabletop or wall cladding. Jigsaw: for curves, rounded corners and cut-outs. Pallet wood often varies in thickness and can be warped. Cut the boards to an even width where needed, then sand or plane them. Safety first: Never run a circular saw or mitre saw through a board that might still have a nail in it. The blade can break and fragments or the board itself can be thrown out. Which pallets are safe to use? Pallets used for international shipping usually carry a stamp with the IPPC logo and a treatment code: HT (heat treated): the wood has been treated with heat. This is the safest choice for DIY projects. MB (methyl bromide): the wood has been fumigated with a toxic gas. Do not use these pallets for furniture or indoor projects. No stamp: you do not know what the pallet has been through. Be careful, especially for anything indoors. Also leave pallets alone if they have stains from oil, chemicals or food, or show signs of mould. Coloured pallets from pallet pooling companies belong to the hire company, so they should not end up in bulky waste or in your project. Can you burn pallet wood? Do not burn pallet wood in a wood burner or open fire indoors. Treated, painted or varnished wood releases harmful substances when burned, and even untreated pallet wood often contains glue, nails and dirt. Take offcuts to your local household waste recycling centre instead. Working safely with pallets Wear work gloves to protect against splinters and nails. Wear safety glasses, as metal fragments can fly off when you cut through nails. Use hearing protection for longer cutting sessions. Wear a dust mask when sanding, as pallet wood is often dirty. Keep the pallet stable and make sure the blade is clear of the ground and other boards. Remove the battery or unplug the saw before changing the blade. Frequently asked questions about dismantling pallets Can I take pallets apart without a reciprocating saw? Yes, with a crowbar, a pallet breaker or a claw hammer. Boards do split more often that way, particularly with old or dry wood. A reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade usually keeps the boards intact. Which blade should I use for pallet wood with nails? Use a bi-metal reciprocating saw blade suitable for nail-embedded wood, for example with around 10 or 10/14 TPI. Only use a circular saw or mitre saw on wood that is completely free of nails. Is pallet wood suitable for indoor furniture? It can be, as long as you choose pallets with an HT stamp and no MB stamp. Clean the wood thoroughly, sand it and finish it with varnish, oil or wood stain. Leave pallets with stains, mould or an unknown history alone. How do I get pallet wood smooth? Start sanding with a coarse grit such as P60 to P80 and work up to P120 to P180. A random orbit sander is quicker than sanding by hand. Wear a dust mask, because pallet wood is often dirty. In short: dismantling and cutting pallets Take pallets apart with a reciprocating saw and a bi-metal blade for nail-embedded wood, so the boards stay whole. Then cut the nail-free boards to size with a circular saw, mitre saw or jigsaw. Only use pallets with an HT stamp, never burn pallet wood indoors and work with gloves and safety glasses. Shop saws
Read moreCutting MDF: Which Saw Works Best?
6 minute read - Cutting MDF: Which Saw Gives the Cleanest Edges? For straight cuts in MDF, the best choice is a circular saw or table saw fitted with a tungsten carbide-tipped (TCT) blade with plenty of teeth. For curves and cut-outs, use a jigsaw with a fine blade for wood or sheet material. Cutting MDF produces a lot of very fine dust, so always work with dust extraction and a dust mask. The right saw for MDF depends mostly on the shape of the cut. Below you will find which saw suits which job, which blade to fit and how to keep coated boards free of chips. What will you learn in this article? Why is MDF different from solid wood? Which saw should you use for MDF? Which saw blade should you use for MDF? Cutting coated or lacquered MDF without chipping Cutting MDF straight without a guide rail Is MDF dust harmful? Common mistakes when cutting MDF Frequently asked questions about cutting MDF In short: cutting MDF Why is MDF different from solid wood? MDF (medium density fibreboard) is made from fine wood fibres pressed together with glue under high pressure. It has no grain, hardly splinters and has the same density all the way through. That is why you can cut very clean edges in it. The downside is that the glue in MDF blunts saw blades quickly and the dust is extremely fine. Which saw should you use for MDF? Saw Best for Blade Circular saw Straight cuts in large boards TCT, high tooth count (roughly 40 to 60 teeth on a 160 to 190 mm blade) Table saw Accurate rip cuts and repeat cuts TCT, high tooth count Mitre saw Skirting board, battens and narrow strips cut to length or at an angle TCT, high tooth count Jigsaw Curves, cut-outs and shapes Fine blade for wood or sheet material Handsaw A few short cuts Fine teeth, hardened blade Circular saw For long, straight cuts across a sheet of MDF, a circular saw is the quickest option. Run it along a guide rail or a straight batten clamped to the board and you will get a clean line. A cordless circular saw, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, cuts through the usual MDF thicknesses without trouble. Check the specifications of your saw for its maximum cutting depth before you start on thicker boards. Jigsaw A jigsaw is the best choice for curves, rounded corners and cut-outs, such as the opening for a basin or a socket. Choose a blade with fine teeth for a neat cut and set the pendulum action low or switch it off. A laser guide or a clearly marked cutting line helps you stay on course. Long straight cuts are harder with a jigsaw, because the blade can drift. Mitre saw If you are cutting MDF skirting board or strips to length and at an angle, a mitre saw gives the most accurate result. Handsaw For a single short cut you can use a handsaw with fine teeth. A hardened blade stays sharp for longer, but even that will blunt faster in MDF than in softwood. For bigger jobs, a power saw is far more comfortable. Which saw blade should you use for MDF? TCT or chrome vanadium? Always choose a blade with tungsten carbide-tipped teeth for MDF. Tungsten carbide is a very hard material that stands up to the abrasive glue in the board. Chrome vanadium (CV) blades are cheap, but they go blunt very quickly in MDF, so keep them away from sheet material. Number of teeth More teeth give a smoother cut. For a circular saw blade of around 160 to 190 mm, 40 to 60 teeth is a good guide. A blade with fewer teeth cuts faster, but leaves rougher edges. Tooth shape Alternate top bevel (ATB): good for uncoated MDF and solid wood. Triple chip grind (TCG): better for coated or lacquered MDF and melamine, because the surface layer chips less. A general-purpose TCT blade will also cut chipboard, plywood and hardwood, but a blade designed for sheet material gives a cleaner finish. Cutting coated or lacquered MDF without chipping Bare MDF hardly chips, but coated or painted boards do. This is how you prevent it: Use a sharp TCT blade with a high tooth count. With a circular saw or jigsaw, place the good face down. The blade cuts upwards, so the top face is the one that chips. With a table saw, place the good face up. Run masking tape along the cutting line. Set the cutting depth so the blade only just comes through the underside of the board. Use a guide rail with an anti-splinter strip if you have one. Tip: Mark your cutting line on the tape rather than on the board. The tape holds the surface fibres in place and the pencil line is easier to see. Cutting MDF straight without a guide rail Clamp a straight batten or aluminium profile to the board as a fence. Measure the distance from the edge of the saw's base plate to the blade, and position the batten that distance from your cutting line. Support the board fully, for example on a sheet of rigid foam insulation or on battens either side of the cut. That way the blade does not pinch and the offcut does not drop away and snap off. Is MDF dust harmful? MDF dust is very fine and gets deep into your lungs. It also contains glue residue. Take these precautions: Connect the saw to a vacuum cleaner or dust extractor. Wear at least an FFP2 mask, and preferably FFP3 if you are doing a lot of cutting indoors. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Clean up the dust with a vacuum cleaner with a fine dust filter, not with a broom. Cut outdoors where you can, or in a well-ventilated room. Safety first: Never sweep up MDF dust. Sweeping throws the finest particles back into the air, exactly where you breathe them in. Common mistakes when cutting MDF Using a CV blade or a blunt blade, which leaves ragged edges and makes the saw run hot. Not supporting the board, so the saw pinches or the edge breaks off. Placing the good face of coated MDF on the wrong side. Cutting without dust extraction and a dust mask. Cutting long straight lines with a jigsaw without any guide. Frequently asked questions about cutting MDF Is a jigsaw suitable for MDF? Yes, especially for curves and cut-outs. Use a fine blade for wood or sheet material and set the pendulum action low or off. For long straight cuts, a circular saw is more accurate. How many teeth should a saw blade for MDF have? For a circular saw with a blade of around 160 to 190 mm, 40 to 60 teeth is a good choice. More teeth give a smoother cut. Larger blades for a mitre saw or table saw have more teeth. Why does my saw blade go blunt so quickly in MDF? The glue in MDF acts like an abrasive on the teeth. Blades made of ordinary steel or chrome vanadium wear out very quickly as a result. A tungsten carbide-tipped blade lasts much longer. Can I have MDF cut to size? Many DIY stores and timber merchants offer a cutting service for sheet material. That is handy for large, straight pieces, especially if you do not own a circular saw. You can then cut curves, cut-outs and small adjustments yourself with a jigsaw. In short: cutting MDF Cut MDF straight with a circular saw and cut curves with a jigsaw. Use a TCT blade with a high tooth count rather than a CV blade, and choose a triple chip grind for coated MDF. Support the board well, check which face is up and always work with dust extraction and a dust mask. Shop jigsaws
Read moreCutting Porcelain Paving: Which Saw and Blade?
6 minute read - Cutting porcelain paving slabs: which saw and which diamond blade? Porcelain paving slabs are hard and usually 20 mm thick. You get the neatest cut with a water-cooled wet tile saw and a diamond blade made for porcelain or ceramic. For one-off cuts, curves and cut-outs, use an angle grinder with a diamond disc for porcelain or ceramic, preferably cutting wet and always with dust protection. What will you learn in this article? What do you use to cut porcelain paving? Which diamond blade should you choose for porcelain? Step-by-step: cutting porcelain paving How to prevent chipping Cutting mitres and cut-outs Safety: silica dust and wet cutting Laying porcelain paving: get the base right Frequently asked questions about cutting porcelain paving In short: cutting porcelain paving What do you use to cut porcelain paving? Tool Good for Advantages Disadvantages Wet tile saw (bench saw) Straight cuts and mitres in lots of slabs Clean cuts, little dust, cools the blade Bulky, needs water and power Angle grinder with diamond disc One-off cuts, curves, cut-outs Flexible, can be used in place More dust, less precise Manual tile cutter Straight cuts, only if the model is rated for thick porcelain Quiet, no dust Not every model can handle 20 mm porcelain Block splitter or bolster Not suitable Not applicable Porcelain splits unpredictably For a whole patio, a wet tile saw is the most comfortable option, and you can often hire one from a tool hire shop. For a few cuts or infill pieces, an angle grinder is enough. A cordless angle grinder, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, is then handy in the garden without an extension lead. Check the specifications of the grinder for its disc diameter and cutting depth. With a 125 mm angle grinder you can usually cut through a 20 mm slab in one pass, but it is neater to work in two passes. Which diamond blade should you choose for porcelain? Always use a diamond blade that the manufacturer specifies for porcelain, ceramic or tiles. A blade for concrete or block paving cuts too coarsely and makes the glazed top surface chip. Continuous rim: the best choice for porcelain. Gives the smoothest cut with the least chipping. Turbo rim: cuts faster, but slightly rougher. Fine for cuts that will be hidden under an edging or border. Segmented rim: designed for concrete and brick, not for porcelain slabs. Also check whether the blade is suitable for wet or dry cutting, and that the bore size and diameter fit your machine. Step-by-step: cutting porcelain paving Using a wet tile saw Set the machine up level on a firm surface and fill the water tray. Plug the machine into a socket protected by an RCD. Water and electricity together call for extra care. Mark the cutting line on the slab with a pencil or marker. Place the slab face up on the sliding table and lock the fence. First cut a few centimetres in from both ends of the line. This stops the last bit from breaking off and the corner from chipping. Then make the full cut steadily. Feed the slab or the cutting head through the blade without forcing it. Rinse the slab with clean water so the slurry does not dry onto the surface. Using an angle grinder Lay the slab flat and stable, for example on a sheet of insulation board or on two battens. Put masking tape along the cutting line and mark the line on the tape. This reduces chipping. First cut a shallow groove along the whole line. Then cut deeper in a second pass. Hold the grinder with both hands and keep the guard fitted. Smooth the cut edge with a sanding block or diamond hand pad if it is sharp. How to prevent chipping Use a continuous rim blade made for porcelain. Let the blade reach full speed before it touches the slab. Cut from the glazed top surface down to the underside. Take care with the first and last part of the cut, or cut in from both ends. Replace a blunt blade. A blunt blade starts pushing and makes the edge break away. Tip: Make a test cut on an offcut first. It shows you straight away whether the blade, speed and feed rate give a clean edge. Cutting mitres and cut-outs For a mitre, for example on a step or low wall, you need a wet tile saw with a tilting head or table. Set the angle, make a test cut on an offcut and check that the angle is right. Make a cut-out, for example around a drain or post, with an angle grinder. Cut the straight sides in up to the corners and form the curve with several short cuts. For round holes you can also use a diamond core drill bit for tiles. Safety: silica dust and wet cutting Porcelain contains crystalline silica. Dry cutting releases fine silica dust, which is harmful to your lungs. Stick to these rules: Cut wet wherever you can. Water binds the dust. If you have to cut dry, wear an FFP3 dust mask and work outdoors, with the wind behind you. Wear safety glasses, ear defenders and gloves. Keep bystanders and children well away. When cutting wet, always use an RCD and keep plugs and extension leads dry. Safety first: Silica dust can cause serious, permanent lung disease. Never dry cut porcelain without an FFP3 mask, and cut wet whenever possible. Laying porcelain paving: get the base right Porcelain slabs are thin and hard. A poor base soon leads to cracked or loose slabs. Lay a stable, well-compacted sub-base using a plate compactor. Porcelain is often laid on a full bed of mortar, sometimes with a priming slurry on the back of the slab; follow the advice of the paving supplier. Fit edge restraints so the slabs cannot shift or sink. Use tile spacers for even joints. Do not run a plate compactor directly over porcelain slabs without a protective mat; check with the supplier whether this is allowed at all. Frequently asked questions about cutting porcelain paving Can I cut porcelain paving with an ordinary angle grinder? Yes, with a diamond disc suitable for porcelain or ceramic. Work in two passes, cut wet if possible and wear an FFP3 dust mask. For lots of straight cuts, a wet tile saw is faster and neater. Can I cut 20 mm porcelain with a manual tile cutter? Only with a tile cutter that is specifically designed for it. Many standard tile cutters are made for thinner indoor tiles. Check the cutter's specifications for the thickness it can handle. Should I hire or buy a tile saw? For a single patio, hiring often makes sense. If you lay paving more often or work on several projects, your own machine can be worthwhile. Either way, get a good diamond blade for porcelain. Why does my slab chip at the end of the cut? The last part has less support and breaks off under the pressure of the blade. So first cut in a little from both ends, or support the slab well right to the end. A blunt or wrong blade makes it worse. In short: cutting porcelain paving Cut porcelain paving slabs with a water-cooled wet tile saw and a continuous rim diamond blade for porcelain. Use an angle grinder with a diamond disc for one-off cuts and cut-outs, work in two passes and cut wet where you can. Protect your lungs from silica dust and lay the slabs on a stable base with proper edge restraints. Shop power tool accessories
Read moreuPVC Cladding: How to Cut and Fit It
7 minute read - Cutting and Fitting uPVC Cladding: How to Tackle It uPVC cladding is made of rigid plastic, so you cut it with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped circular saw blade, ideally on a mitre saw or with a circular saw run along a guide. You fit the panels to straight battens over a breathable membrane, start at the bottom with a starter trim and screw each panel through the centre of its slotted holes so it can expand. Always follow the manufacturer's fitting instructions for spacings, gaps and trims. This guide explains the method and the points where cladding goes wrong most often. What will you learn in this article? What is uPVC cladding and why does it need its own approach? What do you need? First: removing old cladding Step 1: Fit the breathable membrane Step 2: Fit the battens Step 3: Fit the starter trim How do you cut uPVC cladding panels? Step 4: Fit the panels Working safely with long panels Common mistakes Maintenance: cleaning uPVC cladding Frequently asked questions about uPVC cladding In short: cutting and fitting uPVC cladding What is uPVC cladding and why does it need its own approach? uPVC cladding comes as rigid plastic boards, with a woodgrain or smooth finish. Well-known brands include Keralit, but the method is much the same for most systems. The panels are light and low-maintenance. Plastic does, however, expand in the heat and shrink in the cold. That is why you do not screw the panels down tight, but through slotted holes with room to move. You also leave space at the trims at each end. Forget this and the panels will bow outwards in warm weather. What do you need? Breathable, waterproof membrane Timber battens for the framework, treated or naturally durable Starter trim, end trims, corner trims and, if needed, a ventilation trim Cladding panels and the screws the manufacturer specifies Mitre saw or circular saw with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade Drill driver, spirit level, tape measure, pencil and sliding bevel Safety glasses, ear defenders and work gloves A mitre saw and drill driver from the Maxxpack 18V range are handy on scaffolding or in the garden, because you do not need to run cables. First: removing old cladding Does old cladding need to come off before you fit the new panels? Find out what it is made of first. In the UK, asbestos was banned in 1999, so flat or corrugated cement sheets on buildings built or refurbished before 2000 may contain asbestos. Do not cut, break or drill them yourself. Have the material tested and, if necessary, removed by a licensed asbestos contractor. Your local council can tell you how asbestos waste must be disposed of. Safety first: If you suspect old cladding contains asbestos, leave it alone and have it tested before any work starts. Cutting or breaking it can release dangerous fibres. Step 1: Fit the breathable membrane Fix the membrane to the wall or the timber backing structure, underneath the battens. The membrane keeps out rain and wind but lets water vapour from inside the house escape. Lay the strips like roof tiles, with the upper strip over the lower one, so water runs off to the outside. Step 2: Fit the battens The battens decide how flat your cladding will be. Fix them vertically if you are fitting the panels horizontally, so air can flow from bottom to top behind the cladding. Check every batten with a spirit level and a long straight edge. Pack out any unevenness with packers. Space the battens at the centres given in the manufacturer's instructions. Add extra battens at corners, windows and doors, and wherever panels end or a trim is fitted. Leave a ventilation gap at the bottom and top, if needed with a ventilation trim to keep out pests. Where a trim such as an aluminium starter trim is fitted, you can plane the batten down slightly so the trim sits flush and the panel above does not tilt. The instructions for your trim will give the exact amount. Step 3: Fit the starter trim The starter trim goes at the bottom, level across the full width. This is your reference line: if the starter trim is out of level, every row above it will be too. Measure from a fixed point and set out the line with a spirit level or laser. How do you cut uPVC cladding panels? Cut the panels with a standard fine-toothed carbide-tipped circular saw blade. Coarse teeth tear the plastic edge. Mitre saw: the easiest option for square cuts to length. Lay the panel with the face side up, because the blade enters the material from above. Handheld circular saw: cut along a guide. The blade cuts from below upwards, so lay the face side down or use a rail with an anti-splinter strip. Jigsaw: only for cut-outs, for example around an outside light or a pipe. Use a fine blade for plastic. Cut steadily and let the saw do the work. If you push too hard, the plastic heats up and the cut becomes ragged. Support long panels along their full length so they do not sag while you cut. Cutting to length and leaving room Measure each panel separately. Order panels a few centimetres over length and cut them square to size. At end trims and corners, leave the expansion gap given in the fitting instructions. If you cut in cold weather, bear in mind that the panel will get longer when it warms up. Avoiding a repeating woodgrain pattern With woodgrain panels, the same pattern soon shows up if you fit panels from one pack side by side. Mix panels from several packs for a more natural look. Step 4: Fit the panels Clip the first panel into the starter trim. Screw it in place with the specified screws through the slotted holes along the top edge. Put each screw in the centre of the slot. Drive the screw until the head touches the panel, but do not tighten it down. The panel must still be able to slide. Keep to the screw spacing given in the fitting instructions for your panel type. Clip the next panel onto the previous one and repeat. Check every few rows that everything is still level. Finish the top, corners and window reveals with the matching trims. Tip: Set the clutch on your drill driver low so it slips as soon as the screw head reaches the panel. That stops you overtightening the screws. Working safely with long panels Work with at least two people. Cladding panels are long and sag or swing round if you carry them alone. Use a stable scaffold tower or ladder, set up on level ground. Keep the work area clear of offcuts so you do not trip. Wear safety glasses and ear defenders when cutting. Take the battery out of the saw when you change a blade. Common mistakes Battens not checked, so the cladding ripples Starter trim not level Screws driven fully home, so the panel cannot expand No expansion gap at end and corner trims No ventilation gap at the bottom and top All panels from one pack side by side, so the woodgrain pattern repeats Maintenance: cleaning uPVC cladding uPVC cladding is low-maintenance, but not maintenance-free. Once or twice a year, check for green deposits, dirt or loose trims. Clean the cladding with lukewarm water, a mild all-purpose cleaner and a soft brush or sponge. Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents or a stiff brush, because they damage the surface. If you use a pressure washer, keep the nozzle well back and do not spray into the joints. Frequently asked questions about uPVC cladding Which saw should you use to cut uPVC cladding? Use a mitre saw or handheld circular saw with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade. A jigsaw with a fine blade is handy for cut-outs. Coarse blades leave a ragged edge. Should you screw cladding down tight or leave room? You screw the panels through the slotted holes, but not tight. The panel must be able to move as it expands in the heat. Leave room at the end and corner trims as well. Do you need a breathable membrane behind uPVC cladding? Yes. A breathable, waterproof membrane behind the battens protects the wall from rain that gets behind the panels, while moisture from inside the house can still escape. Make sure there is ventilation behind the panels too. Can you fit uPVC cladding yourself? With a straight wall, good tools and a second person, it is a very doable DIY job. Bring in a professional for a high wall that needs scaffolding, or if your old cladding may contain asbestos. In short: cutting and fitting uPVC cladding Start with a membrane, straight battens and a level starter trim. Cut the panels with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade, ideally on a mitre saw, and leave room for expansion. Screw the panels through the centre of the slotted holes without tightening them down, work with two people and follow the manufacturer's instructions for every measurement. Shop tool accessories
Read moreCutting PIR Insulation to Size: Step by Step
6 minute read - Cutting PIR Insulation to Size: From Measuring to Airtight Joints To get PIR insulation cut to size, measure accurately first, mark the line and then cut or saw it. Boards up to about 5 cm thick can be cut with a wide insulation knife. For thicker boards, use an insulation saw, a multi-tool with a serrated knife blade, or a reciprocating saw with a long, fine blade. Cut the board to fit as closely as possible, fill small gaps with PU foam and tape the joints with aluminium foil tape. Only then will the board insulate as it should. What will you learn in this article? What makes PIR different from other insulation? Which tool suits which thickness? Step by step: cutting and fitting PIR to size Finishing and clearing up Is PIR dust dangerous? Common mistakes Frequently asked questions about cutting PIR insulation In short: cutting PIR insulation to size What makes PIR different from other insulation? PIR (polyisocyanurate) is a rigid foam board, usually with an aluminium foil or glass fibre facing on both sides. It insulates well at a fairly small thickness. Because the board is rigid, it has to fit exactly: unlike mineral wool, it will not spring into a gap. Every gap is a leak that lets heat and moisture through. Unlike EPS or XPS, PIR does not melt when friction heats it up. A saw blade that runs hot can still cut less cleanly and fray the facing, though. A sharp blade and a steady pace matter more than stopping to let things cool down. Which tool suits which thickness? PIR board thickness Tool Note Up to about 5 cm Wide insulation knife or snap-off knife with a long blade Score both sides and snap Thicker than about 5 cm Insulation saw (hand saw with fine serrations) or multi-tool with a serrated knife blade Keep it straight with a batten Very thick boards Reciprocating saw with a long, fine wood blade, or a long insulation saw The blade must be longer than the board is thick Lots of boards or angled cuts Circular saw or plunge saw on a rail, with dust extraction The cutting depth must be large enough With a multi-tool or reciprocating saw from the Maxxpack 18V range, you can work in the loft or on the roof without a cable. When you cut with a power tool, do watch out for the fine dust (see below). Step by step: cutting and fitting PIR to size 1 Measure the gap accurately Measure the width between the joists or rafters in at least two places: top and bottom, or front and back. Timbers are rarely perfectly parallel. Work from the smallest measurement. 2 Decide on the clearance A PIR board should fit snugly, but you still need to be able to fit it without forcing it. Cut the board a few millimetres smaller than the measured size. That way you can slide it in and are left with a narrow gap that you fill with PU foam. If the gap is more than a centimetre, cut a new board or fill the space with a strip of PIR. 3 Mark the line Lay the board on a flat surface, such as a workbench or two trestles with a sheet on top. Mark the size with a pencil or marker and a long straight edge. For angled cuts, for example in a roof slope, copy the angle with a sliding bevel. Tip: Write the measurement for each bay on the timber itself. It saves you mixing up boards when the gaps differ by a few millimetres. 4 Cut or saw the board With a knife: using the straight edge as a guide, cut through the facing and as deep as you can into the foam. Turn the board over, cut along the same line and snap the board. With an insulation saw or multi-tool: hold the straight edge along the line and saw steadily and straight, keeping the blade at right angles to the board. With a reciprocating saw: choose a blade that is longer than the board is thick, clamp the board in place and saw at an even speed. 5 Fit the board Slide the board into the gap with the correct side facing in or out (see the printing on the board or the manufacturer's instructions). Fix the board as the manufacturer specifies: wedged between battens, with insulation screws or fixings, or with adhesive. 6 Seal gaps and joints Fill the gaps around the edges with PU foam. Once the foam has cured, trim it flush with the board. Then tape all the joints and junctions with aluminium foil tape so the layer is airtight and acts as a vapour control layer. Finishing and clearing up After cutting, remove any frayed facing with a knife or sanding block. Clear up the dust with a vacuum cleaner, not a broom. Keep usable offcuts for small gaps and take the rest to your household waste recycling centre. Check with your local council how they accept insulation waste. Is PIR dust dangerous? PIR dust is fine and irritates the eyes and airways. When cutting, wear a dust mask (FFP2 at least), safety glasses and gloves. Use power saws outdoors or with dust extraction where you can. Cutting with a knife or sawing by hand produces far less dust than a fast-spinning saw. Safety first: Wear an FFP2 dust mask or better and safety glasses whenever you cut PIR with a power tool, and clean up with a vacuum rather than sweeping the dust into the air. Common mistakes Measuring in only one place, when the timbers are not parallel Cutting the board too tight, so it breaks when you fit it Filling large gaps with foam alone instead of a fitted strip Not taping the joints with aluminium foil tape Cutting with a blunt or coarse blade, which tears the facing Frequently asked questions about cutting PIR insulation Does PIR melt when you cut it? No. PIR is a thermoset foam and does not melt from the heat of sawing, unlike EPS and XPS. A hot, blunt blade can still leave ragged edges. How much clearance should you leave with PIR boards? A few millimetres is enough to be able to fit the board. Fill that narrow gap with PU foam. Fill a larger gap with a strip of PIR rather than foam alone. Can you cut PIR with a utility knife? Boards up to about 5 cm can be scored on both sides with a long-bladed knife and then snapped. For thicker boards, an insulation saw, multi-tool or reciprocating saw is faster and gives a straighter cut. Which tape should you use on PIR joints? Use aluminium foil tape that is suitable for insulation boards. Apply it to a dry, dust-free surface and rub it down firmly so it bonds everywhere. In short: cutting PIR insulation to size Measure each gap in several places, cut the board a few millimetres smaller than the smallest measurement and choose your tool by thickness: a knife up to about 5 cm, an insulation saw or multi-tool above that, and a reciprocating saw for thick boards. Fill gaps with PU foam, tape the joints with aluminium foil tape and wear a dust mask when cutting with power tools. Shop multi-tools
Read moreCutting a Worktop: Which Saw and Which Blade?
6 minute read - Cutting a Kitchen Worktop: The Right Saw, Blade and Face Up To cut a kitchen worktop straight, use a circular saw or a plunge saw on a guide rail. For the cut-out for a sink or hob, use a jigsaw. On worktops with a laminate surface, fit a fine carbide-tipped blade with triple-chip teeth and position the good face so that any chipping ends up on the underside. Composite, quartz and natural stone worktops cannot be cut with ordinary saws, so have those made to size. The guide below covers cutting a worktop in laminate and solid wood yourself. What will you learn in this article? Which saw should you use for which worktop? Which saw blade should you choose? Which side should face up when cutting? Step by step: cutting a worktop to size How do you cut out a sink or hob opening? Sealing cut edges against moisture Cutting safely Cut it yourself or have it done? Frequently asked questions about cutting a worktop In short: cutting a worktop Which saw should you use for which worktop? Worktop material Straight cuts Cut-outs DIY job? Chipboard with a laminate surface (HPL or laminate) Circular saw or plunge saw with rail Jigsaw Yes Solid wood Circular saw or plunge saw with rail Jigsaw Yes Compact laminate (solid HPL) Plunge saw with a special blade Router, or leave it to a pro Tricky Composite, quartz, natural stone, ceramic Water-cooled diamond saw Waterjet or diamond tooling Leave it to a pro Circular saw or plunge saw for straight cuts For shortening a worktop and making long straight cuts, a plunge saw on a guide rail is the best choice. The rail keeps the saw straight, and the anti-splinter strip along the rail holds the surface layer down. A handheld circular saw also works, but clamp a straight batten or rail in place as a guide. A circular saw from the Maxxpack 18V range is handy if you are cutting in the kitchen yourself, with no cable trailing across the worktop. Jigsaw for cut-outs and details Use the jigsaw for the sink cut-out, the hob cut-out or a notch around a chimney breast or boxing. Choose a fine blade for laminate or wood. A jigsaw is less suited to long straight cuts: in a thick worktop the blade can wander, leaving a cut that is out of square. Which saw blade should you choose? Laminate surface (HPL, laminate): a carbide-tipped circular saw blade with triple-chip (TCG) teeth and a high tooth count. The right number of teeth depends on the blade diameter, so check the manual of your saw and the blade packaging for the recommended blade. Solid wood: a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade for clean crosscuts. Jigsaw: a fine blade for laminate, or a down-cut blade (reverse teeth) if you want to cut with the good face up. A sharp blade matters more than an expensive one. A blunt blade tears the surface layer. Which side should face up when cutting? This decides whether chipping ends up on the visible face or underneath: Handheld circular saw and plunge saw: the blade cuts upwards through the material. Lay the worktop good face down. If you use a rail with an anti-splinter strip, the good face can be up. Jigsaw with a standard blade: it cuts on the upstroke. Lay it good face down, or use a down-cut blade and cut with the good face up. Table saw or mitre saw: the blade cuts downwards into the workpiece, so good face up. If in doubt, run masking tape along the cutting line and mark the line on the tape in pencil. That reduces chipping even further. Tip: Make a test cut on an offcut first. It shows you straight away whether the blade and the face-up side give a clean edge. Step by step: cutting a worktop to size 1 Measure twice Walls are rarely square. Measure the length at the front and at the back, and check the angle in the corner. 2 Mark the cut Draw the line on the side that faces up while you cut. 3 Support the worktop Support the worktop along its full length, for example on trestles with two battens. Make sure the offcut cannot snap off at the end of the cut. 4 Clamp the rail or guide Clamp the guide rail or a straight batten in place along the line. 5 Cut in one steady pass Push the saw through in one calm, continuous movement. Do not stop halfway. 6 Sand the edge lightly Sand the cut edge lightly with fine sandpaper to take off any sharp edges on the laminate. How do you cut out a sink or hob opening? Use the template supplied with the sink or hob, or mark out the opening using the dimensions in the manual. Drill a hole inside the line at each corner, large enough for the jigsaw blade. Cut from hole to hole along the line. Before the last cut, screw a batten across the opening so the loose piece cannot drop and tear the edge with it. Test-fit the sink or hob and trim where needed. Sealing cut edges against moisture Chipboard absorbs water and then swells. Seal every cut edge: Glue edging strip to visible ends. Treat the cut edges of openings with a suitable sealant, varnish or edge sealer, especially around the sink and the dishwasher. Fit the sink on a sealing strip or bed it in sealant as the manual describes. On solid wood, treat the cut edge with the same oil or varnish as the rest of the worktop. Cutting safely Wear safety glasses and ear defenders, and connect a vacuum extractor to the saw if you can. Clamp the workpiece rather than holding it by hand. Take the battery out whenever you change a blade. Safety first: Never try to cut quartz or composite with an ordinary saw. Cutting them releases respirable crystalline silica dust, which can cause serious lung disease. Cut it yourself or have it done? Cutting it yourself works well with laminate-faced chipboard and with solid wood, as long as you have a good saw, a rail and a sharp blade. Practise on an offcut first. Have the worktop made to size for composite, quartz, natural stone and ceramic, for complex mitre joints, and if you do not have a guide rail. Frequently asked questions about cutting a worktop Can you cut a worktop with a jigsaw? For cut-outs, yes. For long straight cuts a jigsaw is less suitable, because the blade can wander in thick material. Use a plunge saw or circular saw with a guide instead. How do you stop a worktop chipping when you cut it? Use a sharp blade with plenty of teeth, put the good face on the side where the blade enters the material and tape the cutting line. A rail with an anti-splinter strip gives the neatest result. How many teeth should a saw blade for a worktop have? The more teeth, the finer the cut. For laminate surfaces, a blade with triple-chip teeth and a high tooth count is the usual choice, with the exact number depending on the diameter of your saw blade. Can I cut a composite worktop myself? We do not recommend it. Composite and natural stone need a water-cooled diamond saw, and cutting them releases harmful quartz dust. Have the worktop cut to size by the supplier or a stonemason. In short: cutting a worktop Make straight cuts with a plunge saw or circular saw on a rail, and cut-outs with a jigsaw. Use a sharp, fine-toothed blade, check which side should face up and tape the cutting line. Seal every cut edge against moisture, and have stone or composite worktops cut to size by a professional. Shop jigsaws
Read moreInsulating with a Staple Gun and Multi-Tool
6 minute read - Insulating with a Staple Gun and Multi-Tool: The Quickest Way to Work When you insulate, a staple gun is mainly for fixing membranes and thin, flexible materials to timber battens and studs: a vapour control layer, a breathable membrane, or insulation rolls with a paper or foil flange. A multi-tool cuts the insulation to size and makes cut-outs around pipes, joists and back boxes. Rigid insulation boards such as PIR are not stapled. You fix them with insulation screws, insulation fixings with a wide head, or adhesive. Used together, insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool lets you work quickly and keep the finish tight. What will you learn in this article? What do you use a staple gun for when insulating? What do you use a multi-tool for when insulating? Can you fix PIR boards with a staple gun? Step by step: insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool Common mistakes when insulating yourself Frequently asked questions about insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool In short: insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool What do you use a staple gun for when insulating? A staple gun drives staples into timber, which makes it quick to fix lightweight materials. For insulation work that mostly means: Vapour control layer on the inside (the warm side), stapled to the timber framework Breathable membrane on the outside, for example on a wall or roof Insulation rolls or batts with a paper or foil flange between timber joists or studs Reflective multifoil insulation on timber surfaces Insulation fleece or dust sheeting in a crawl space or at the eaves A staple gun only works on timber or other materials that hold a staple. On brick, concrete or metal you need a different fixing. Which staples should you use? Choose staples that fit your staple gun and are long enough to pass through the membrane or flange and grip well in the timber. Staples of 8 to 14 mm are common for membranes. Check the specifications of your staple gun to see which staple lengths it takes. In damp areas, use galvanised or stainless steel staples. What do you use a multi-tool for when insulating? A multi-tool moves the blade back and forth in a fast oscillating motion, so you can cut accurately and get into tight corners. For insulation work you use it for: Cutting insulation to size: with a serrated knife blade or a long knife blade, you can cut mineral wool, glass wool and soft boards cleanly. Cut-outs around pipes, cables, back boxes and joist ends. Trimming battens: shortening a timber batten or block where a normal saw will not reach. Removing old insulation or sealant with a scraper blade. If your cordless tools share one battery platform, such as a multi-tool from the Maxxpack 18V range, you can use the same batteries in the loft or crawl space, where there is often no socket nearby. Can you fix PIR boards with a staple gun? No. PIR, XPS and EPS are rigid boards. You wedge them between battens, screw them in place with insulation screws or fixings with a wide head, or bond them with a suitable adhesive or PU foam. A staple will not hold a board like that. You can, however, staple the membrane that goes over the top to the battens. Step by step: insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool 1 Prepare and work safely Clear the area and check the surface for damp, leaks and rot, and fix any problems first. Find out where electrical cables run so you do not put a staple through one. When handling mineral wool, wear gloves, safety glasses, long sleeves and a dust mask (FFP2 at least). Safety first: Glass wool and rock wool fibres irritate skin, eyes and lungs. Wear a dust mask of at least FFP2, safety glasses and gloves, and keep the space well ventilated while you work. 2 Measure the gaps Measure the space between the joists or battens. Cut insulation rolls or boards a few millimetres to a centimetre wider so they fit snugly. Mineral wool should press firmly against the timber with no gaps. 3 Cut the insulation to size with the multi-tool Lay the insulation on a flat surface, place a straight batten along the line and cut in one continuous movement with the serrated knife blade or knife blade on the multi-tool. For cut-outs around pipes, measure their position, make the cut-out slightly generous and press the insulation snugly around them. 4 Fit the insulation Wedge the insulation between the battens. For rolls with a flange, staple the flange to the side or front of the battens every 10 to 15 cm. Do not leave any voids, and do not squash the insulation: compressed wool insulates less well. 5 Fit the vapour control layer Put the vapour control layer on the warm side, which is the inside of the house. Staple it to the battens. Overlap the strips by at least 10 cm and seal the joints with suitable tape. Tape it carefully around any pipes or cables that pass through, and where it meets the walls and floor. 6 Check and finish Check that the membrane is intact everywhere. Seal any tear, or any hole from a misplaced staple, with tape. You can then finish the wall or ceiling, for example with plasterboard on battens. Tip: Run a hand along every taped joint before you board over it. Any gap you find now is far easier to fix than condensation later. Common mistakes when insulating yourself Vapour control layer on the wrong side: on the cold side it traps moisture inside the structure. Gaps between insulation and joists: heat escapes there and condensation can form. Not taping the membrane joints: a membrane without tape is not airtight. Squashing insulation to make it fit. Stapling through cables because nobody checked where they run. Trying to staple rigid boards instead of screwing or bonding them. Frequently asked questions about insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool Which side does the vapour control layer go on? On the warm side, which is the inside of the house, between the insulation and the finish. This stops warm, moist indoor air from condensing in the insulation. On the outside you use a breathable membrane instead. Can you cut glass wool and rock wool with a multi-tool? Yes. With a serrated knife blade or long knife blade on the multi-tool, you can cut mineral wool quickly and straight. A wide insulation knife also works, but the multi-tool is handier for cut-outs and tight corners. How many staples do you need for an insulation membrane? Fix the membrane every 10 to 15 cm on each batten. Where two strips overlap, staple through both layers and then tape the joint. Is a cordless staple gun better than a manual one? A cordless staple gun takes less effort, especially overhead or over large areas. A manual staple gun is lighter and cheaper, and it is fine for a small job. In short: insulating with a staple gun and multi-tool Use the staple gun for membranes and flanged insulation on timber battens, and screw or bond rigid boards. The multi-tool cuts insulation neatly to size and makes cut-outs around pipes and joists. Work without gaps, put the vapour control layer on the warm side and tape every joint so it is airtight. Shop multi-tools
Read moreMowing the Lawn: Height, Frequency and Tips
6 minute read - Mowing the Lawn: How to Get Thick, Green Grass During the growing season, cut your lawn to about 4 cm and never take off more than a third of the grass length in one go. From May to the end of August that usually means mowing the lawn once or twice a week, and less often in spring and autumn. Mow when the grass is dry, change direction each time and keep the blades sharp. Do that and the turf grows thicker, leaving less room for moss and weeds. What will you learn in this article? Why mow the lawn regularly? How short should you cut grass? What is the one-third rule? How often and when should you mow? Which direction should you mow in? Should you collect grass clippings or leave them? Cylinder mower or rotary mower? Looking after your lawn mower Common lawn mowing mistakes Frequently asked questions about mowing the lawn In short: mowing the lawn Why mow the lawn regularly? Grass grows from the base of the plant. Regular mowing encourages it to branch out and produce new shoots, so the turf becomes denser. Long grass also blocks light from the lower, finer blades, and a thick, dense lawn leaves very little space for moss and weeds to take hold. Mowing rarely and then cutting very short does the opposite. The grass is shocked, turns yellow and needs time to recover. How short should you cut grass? A short lawn looks tidy, but grass that is cut too low scorches faster in the sun and dries out more quickly. Use these heights as a guide: Type of lawn Cutting height in the growing season Ornamental lawn (little foot traffic) About 3 cm Family or play lawn About 4 cm Spring and autumn 0.5 to 1 cm higher Drought and hot spells 5 cm or more Shady areas A little higher than the rest Set the cutting height before you start. With a new mower, it helps to test it on a small patch and measure the result. What is the one-third rule? Never remove more than a third of the grass length in a single cut. If you want to end up at 4 cm, mow when the grass is about 6 cm long. If the lawn has grown well past that, after a holiday for example, bring it back down in two or three cuts with a few days in between. Tip: After a long break, raise the mower to its highest setting for the first cut, then lower it a notch at each of the next mows until you reach your usual height. How often and when should you mow? In a normal season you can follow this schedule: March: start once the grass is growing and the ground is neither frozen nor waterlogged. Mow about every two weeks on a slightly higher setting. April: roughly every ten days. May to August: once or twice a week, depending on growth. September and October: back to about every ten days. November: only mow if the weather is mild and the grass is still growing. Let the lawn go into winter a little longer. What time of day is best? Mow in dry weather and preferably not in the full midday sun. Late afternoon, or the morning once the dew has dried, are good times. Wet grass clumps, gets torn rather than cut, and the mower leaves tracks behind. Mowing during a drought In a long dry spell grass barely grows. Mow less often and leave it longer, because the extra length shades the soil and helps stop it drying out. Which direction should you mow in? Change direction every time: lengthways one week, across or diagonally the next. If you always follow the same pattern, the blades lie flat in one direction and ruts form in the turf. Overlap each strip by a few centimetres so you do not miss any. Should you collect grass clippings or leave them? That depends on how much there is. A thin layer of fine clippings can stay on the lawn: it breaks down quickly and returns nutrients to the soil. This is called mulching. A thick layer, on the other hand, blocks light and air and can start to rot, turning the grass underneath yellow and building up thatch. As a rule of thumb: if you mow often and only take a little off, leave the fine clippings where they fall. If the grass has grown long or is wet, collect the clippings or rake them up. They can go on the compost heap. Cylinder mower or rotary mower? Cylinder mower Rotary mower (cordless or electric) How it cuts Snips the grass like scissors between a rotating cylinder and a fixed blade A spinning blade cuts the grass off Finish Very neat and crisp Good, slightly rougher at the tips Best for Small to medium, flat lawns that are mowed often Larger lawns, longer grass, uneven ground Noise Quiet Louder A cylinder mower, such as the Batavia cylinder mower, suits anyone who keeps the lawn short, mows often and wants a crisp finish. For long or wet grass and bumpy ground, a rotary mower is easier to work with. Looking after your lawn mower Keep the blades sharp. Blunt blades shred the grass, so the tips turn brown. Have the blades checked or sharpened at least once a season. Clean the mower after use and remove any caked-on grass. Take out the battery or unplug the mower first. Check the cutting height at the start of the season. Safety first: Always remove the battery or unplug the mower before you clean it, clear a blockage or touch the blades. Common lawn mowing mistakes Cutting far too short in one go Mowing when the grass is wet Always mowing in the same direction Leaving a thick layer of clippings on the lawn Working with blunt blades Cutting short during drought and hot weather Frequently asked questions about mowing the lawn How often should you mow the lawn in summer? From May to the end of August, once or twice a week. In a warm, wet spell the grass grows faster and you will need to mow more often. In dry weather, mow less often and leave it longer. Can you mow wet grass? It is better not to. Wet grass sticks to the mower, gets torn rather than cut, and the wheels leave tracks. Wait until the dew or rain has dried off. When should you stop mowing in autumn? Keep mowing as long as the grass is growing, which usually means until some point in November. Raise the cutting height a little for the last few cuts so the lawn goes into winter with some length. Our guide on when to mow your lawn covers the timing in more detail. Is a cylinder mower better than a normal lawn mower? A cylinder mower gives a crisper cut and is quieter, but it works best on a flat lawn that you mow often. For long grass, large areas or uneven ground, a rotary mower is more practical. In short: mowing the lawn Mow often and not too short: around 4 cm for a family lawn, 3 cm for an ornamental lawn, and higher during drought, in shade and outside the main season. Follow the one-third rule, mow in dry weather, change direction and keep the blades sharp. Leave a thin layer of clippings on the lawn and collect a thick one. Shop lawn tools
Read moreCutting Plasterboard: The Right Saw and Technique
6 minute read - How to Cut Plasterboard: The Right Saw and Technique The quickest way to make straight cuts when cutting plasterboard is to score the paper face with a utility knife, snap the board and then cut through the paper on the back. For cut-outs, use a jab saw, a hole saw or a multi-tool, and for lots of long cuts a circular saw with dust extraction. Work with fine, sharp teeth and wear a dust mask whenever you cut with a power tool. What will you learn in this article? Cutting or sawing plasterboard: which should you choose? How do you cut plasterboard with a utility knife? Which saw should you use for plasterboard? Why does my plasterboard break when I cut it? Cutting plasterboard with as little dust as possible Safety when cutting plasterboard Frequently asked questions about cutting plasterboard In short: cutting plasterboard Cutting or sawing plasterboard: which should you choose? Job Best method Why Straight cut across the width or length Score and snap with a utility knife Fast, almost no dust Narrow strip (less than a few cm) Saw with a hand saw or circular saw A narrow strip won't snap off cleanly Cut-out for a window, pipe or joist Jab saw, jigsaw or multi-tool You're cutting a closed shape Hole for a back box or downlight Hole saw on a drill An accurate round hole in one go Lots of boards to size or bevelled cuts Circular saw with guide rail and extraction Straight and repeatable How do you cut plasterboard with a utility knife? 1 Mark the line Draw the line on the face side with a pencil and a straight edge or plasterboard T-square. 2 Score the paper face Run the knife along the straight edge. You only need to go a few millimetres deep, through the paper and just into the gypsum core. 3 Snap the board Bend the board backwards over the edge of a table or against your knee. It will break cleanly along the score line. 4 Cut the paper on the back Run the knife along the fold to cut through the paper on the back. 5 Tidy the edge Smooth the edge with a plasterboard rasp or sanding block so no ragged paper sticks out. For a cut along the length, mark the measurement at several points with a tape measure and join them up with a straight edge. Alternatively, hold the tape at the right length with the knife against its end and draw it along the edge of the board. Tip: Always score the face side, usually the side with the lighter paper and the tapered long edges. That way the cleanest edge ends up on show. Which saw should you use for plasterboard? Fine-toothed hand saw A hand saw works for narrow strips and simple cuts. Choose one with fine teeth, or the edge will crumble. Plaster blunts saw teeth quickly, so don't use an expensive woodworking saw. Jab saw A jab saw (also called a plasterboard saw or keyhole saw) has a narrow, pointed blade with coarse, hardened teeth. You push it through the board and use it to cut out openings for a pipe, a window reveal or a joist. Ideal for rough cuts that will be finished later. Hole saw For back boxes, downlights and pipe openings, fit a hole saw to your drill. Use the diameter specified by the manufacturer of the box or light fitting. Set the drill to a low speed with the hammer function switched off. Multi-tool A multi-tool with a wood blade or a dedicated plasterboard blade makes neat rectangular cut-outs, even in a board that's already fixed to the wall. It's useful for a socket in an awkward spot or for trimming a board after fitting. A multi-tool running on the Maxxpack 18V battery also works where there's no socket nearby. Circular saw A circular saw cuts straight and fast but produces a lot of fine dust. Connect it to a vacuum cleaner or dust extractor and use a guide rail. A lower speed gives more control and less dust flying around. Ideally keep a separate blade for plasterboard and sheet materials, because gypsum wears a wood blade quickly. Jigsaw A jigsaw can cut curves and openings. Use a fine blade and switch the pendulum action off for a neater edge. The blade does make the board vibrate, so support it well. Why does my plasterboard break when I cut it? The board isn't properly supported and sags under its own weight. You're pushing too hard, so the saw crushes the gypsum core. The saw teeth are too coarse or blunt. The offcut drops at the end of the cut and tears the last few centimetres with it. Support the offcut. Cutting plasterboard with as little dust as possible Score and snap instead of sawing wherever you can. Saw outdoors or in a room you can ventilate well and screen off. Use dust extraction on the circular saw or multi-tool. Clean up with a vacuum cleaner, not a broom. Safety when cutting plasterboard Plaster dust is fine and irritates the eyes and airways. When sawing or sanding with power tools, wear a dust mask (at least FFP2) and safety glasses. Remove the battery from the saw before changing the blade. Safety first: Before cutting an opening in an existing wall or ceiling, check there are no pipes or cables behind it. Use a cable and pipe detector if needed, and switch off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit when working near electrics. Frequently asked questions about cutting plasterboard Can you cut plasterboard with a jigsaw? Yes, with a fine blade and the pendulum action switched off. Support the board well, because the blade makes it vibrate. For straight cuts, scoring and snapping is quicker and cleaner. Which side of the plasterboard do you score? Score the face side, which is usually the side with the lighter paper and the tapered long edges. Snap the board backwards and then cut through the paper on the back. How do I cut a hole for a socket in plasterboard? Mark the position and cut the opening to suit the back box you're using. For a round box, use a hole saw in the specified diameter with the drill on low speed. For a rectangular dry lining box, use a multi-tool or jab saw. Do I need to finish the edge of plasterboard after cutting? Yes. Remove any loose paper and crumbs with a plasterboard rasp or sanding block. Where cut edges meet at a joint, chamfer them slightly so the jointing compound can fill the gap properly. In short: cutting plasterboard Make straight cuts with a utility knife: score, snap and cut the back. Use a jab saw or multi-tool for openings and a hole saw for round holes. Save the circular saw for lots of cuts or precise work, always with extraction, and wear a dust mask whenever you cut with power tools. Shop multi-tools
Read moreCleaning Exterior Walls: The Right Method per Wall Type
6 minute read - Cleaning Exterior Walls: How to Do It Yourself The safest way of cleaning exterior walls is to work from gentle to strong: start with water, a soft brush and a green algae remover, and only then move on to a pressure washer on low pressure from a good distance. The right method depends on the material, as brick can take more than mortar joints, render or timber. Leave sandblasting and any cleaning at height to a specialist. What will you learn in this article? Why clean your exterior walls? What type of wall do you have? What methods are there for cleaning exterior walls? Preparation Step by step: cleaning an exterior wall Protective clothing Aftercare: water-repellent treatment Do it yourself or call in a professional? Frequently asked questions about cleaning exterior walls In short: cleaning exterior walls Why clean your exterior walls? Green algae and moss hold moisture. In winter that moisture can freeze and damage bricks or mortar joints. Dirt and soot make a wall look grey and tired, especially on a busy road. Damage becomes visible: a clean wall shows where joints are loose or bricks are cracked. Kerb appeal and value: a well-kept front makes a real difference to your home. What type of wall do you have? Wall type Suitable approach Watch out for Brick Water, brush, algae remover, pressure washer on low pressure Old or soft bricks and mortar can erode Concrete Algae remover, pressure washer No acid on concrete Render or decorative plaster Soft brush, low-pressure rinse, dedicated cleaner High pressure damages the top layer Timber Mild soapy water, brush, garden hose High pressure raises the grain and forces water into joints uPVC (such as cladding or panels) Mild soapy water, soft brush, garden hose No abrasives or solvents Metal Mild soapy water, soft brush Don't scratch the coating If you're not sure what the material is, test first on a small, inconspicuous area. What methods are there for cleaning exterior walls? Water, brush and algae remover This is the gentlest method and the best place to start for most walls. Wet the wall, apply a green algae remover and leave it to work as directed on the packaging. Some products are worked in with a brush afterwards, while others are left for rain and wind to do the job. Pressure washer with cold water A pressure washer works quickly on brick and concrete. Use a wide spray pattern, start on a low setting and keep a generous distance. Spray at an angle and never straight into the mortar joints. Too strong a jet blasts sand out of the joints and damages soft bricks. A cordless pressure washer such as the Batavia Nexxforce is handy for smaller sections, plinths, window frames and low walls without the need for a cable. Steam or hot water cleaning Hot water or steam at low pressure loosens grease, soot and algae without hitting the wall hard. Professional facade cleaners often work this way. The equipment isn't usually something a homeowner owns. Chemical cleaning For stubborn staining such as soot or efflorescence, specialists use acidic or alkaline products. The wrong product can damage bricks, mortar, glass and window frames. As a homeowner, stick to products suitable for your wall type and follow the instructions to the letter. Sandblasting and abrasive blasting Blasting removes the top layer of the brick. It's effective but can also damage a wall permanently. This is a job for a specialist, and on a listed building you will usually need consent from your local council. Preparation 1 Inspect the wall If mortar joints are loose or there are cracks, have them repaired first. Otherwise you'll be driving water into the wall. 2 Check for asbestos Cladding panels, soffits or fascia boards in buildings built or refurbished before 2000 may contain asbestos. Never pressure wash or work on them yourself. If in doubt, have them tested by a professional. 3 Cover up Tape over air bricks, vents and the letterbox, close windows and doors properly, and cover plants with plastic sheeting or wet them thoroughly beforehand. 4 Choose the right weather Pick a dry, overcast day with no frost or strong wind. In bright sunshine a cleaner dries too quickly. 5 Set up a safe workplace Work from the ground with a telescopic pole where you can. If you need to go higher, use a sturdy ladder or a scaffold tower and make sure someone is with you. Safety first: Never use a pressure washer from a ladder. The recoil can push you off balance. For higher walls, use a scaffold tower or call in a professional. Step by step: cleaning an exterior wall Wet the wall from the bottom up. This stops dirt soaking deeper into the brick. Apply the cleaner, also from the bottom up. Leave it to work as directed on the packaging and keep the wall damp. Brush stubborn spots with a soft or medium brush. Rinse thoroughly from top to bottom with water or a pressure washer on low pressure. Let the wall dry for a few days and check the result. Protective clothing Wear safety glasses, waterproof gloves and clothes that can get wet. If you're using chemical products, check the packaging for the protection required. With a pressure washer, wear sturdy footwear with good grip. Aftercare: water-repellent treatment After cleaning, you can treat a brick wall with a water repellent. It makes the brick shed water, so dirt and algae don't take hold as quickly. Only do this if: the wall is completely dry (usually after several dry days), the mortar joints are in good condition, the product is breathable, so moisture in the wall can still escape. If you're unsure if your wall is suitable, ask a facade specialist for advice. Tip: A breathable product matters most on older solid walls. Trapping moisture inside the brickwork can cause more damage than the dirt you've just removed. Do it yourself or call in a professional? Doing it yourself works well on a low wall with ordinary dirt and materials you know. Call in a professional for work at height, on listed buildings, for heavy staining such as soot or graffiti, when mortar joints are damaged and whenever you suspect asbestos. Frequently asked questions about cleaning exterior walls Can you clean a brick wall with a pressure washer? Yes, but carefully: low setting, wide spray, plenty of distance and spray at an angle. Too much pressure strips out the mortar joints and damages soft bricks. On older walls it's better to try a gentler method first. What gets rid of green algae on exterior walls? Use a green algae remover suitable for masonry and walls. Apply it on a dry day and leave it to work as directed. Protect plants and rinse windows and frames afterwards. When is the best time to clean exterior walls? In spring or early autumn, on a dry, overcast day without frost. The wall needs a few days to dry afterwards. How often should you clean exterior walls? That depends on the position and the material. A north-facing wall or one under trees gets algae more quickly. Check your walls every year and clean them when you see green, black or grey staining. In short: cleaning exterior walls Start with the gentlest method: water, a brush and an algae remover. Only use a pressure washer on brick or concrete, on low pressure and from a distance. Prepare the wall properly, work safely at height and only apply a water repellent once everything is dry and the joints are sound. Shop cleaning tools
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