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Cutting hardwood: which saw should you choose for which job?
For straight cuts in hardwood, use a circular saw with a tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) blade. For cross-cutting, use a mitre saw, and for curves a jigsaw with a blade made for hardwood. More important than the type of machine is a sharp blade with the right teeth and a steady cutting pace. Cutting hardwood is harder work than softwood because the wood is dense and heavy, so a blunt or unsuitable blade will burn the wood or wander off the line.
What will you learn in this article?
What makes hardwood difficult to cut?
Hardwoods such as oak, beech, meranti, bangkirai and other tropical species are denser than softwoods such as spruce or pine. As a result:
- the saw meets more resistance and the blade heats up faster;
- the wood burns more easily, leaving black edges;
- saw blades wear out faster;
- with the wrong blade, the wood easily splinters along the edges.
Some species, such as bangkirai, also contain resins or silica that blunt saw blades even faster.
Which saw suits which job?
| Job | Best saw | Blade |
|---|---|---|
| Long straight cuts, ripping boards to width | Circular saw or table saw | TCT, 24 to 40 teeth |
| Cross-cutting beams, battens and decking boards | Mitre saw (sliding if needed) | TCT, 40 to 60 teeth |
| Curves and cut-outs | Jigsaw | Hardwood blade, for example bi-metal |
| Demolition or rough trimming | Reciprocating saw | Wood blade, bi-metal if there are nails |
| Fine hand work and joints | Japanese pull saw or tenon saw | Fine teeth |
The tooth counts are a guide for blades of roughly 160 to 190 mm on a circular saw. Larger blades for a mitre saw or table saw have more teeth.
Circular saw for straight cuts
A circular saw is the fastest way to cut hardwood straight. Use a guide rail or a sturdy straight batten as a fence for a clean line. A cordless circular saw, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, is handy when you are working outdoors on a patio or decking. With thick hardwood, cut a little more slowly with a cordless saw and use a sharp blade, so the machine does not get overloaded.
Mitre saw for square and angled cuts
For cutting beams, battens and decking boards to length, a mitre saw is the most accurate option. Every cut is exactly square or at the angle you set. A sliding function gives you extra cutting width for wider boards.
Jigsaw for curves
A jigsaw cuts hardwood perfectly well if you use the right blade and work steadily. Choose a blade suitable for hardwood. A blade with finer teeth gives a cleaner cut but cuts more slowly. Set the pendulum action low or off for a neat cut, and only use a higher setting for fast, rough work. Expect the blade to drift slightly in thick hardwood, so leave a little extra and finish with a plane or sander.
Hand saw
For a single cut or fine work, a hand saw does the job well. A Japanese pull saw cuts thin and accurately on the pull stroke and works well in hardwood. A standard hand saw with hardened teeth cannot be resharpened once it goes blunt.
Which saw blade should you choose for hardwood?
- Material: choose tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) teeth. Chrome vanadium (CV) blades go blunt very quickly in hardwood.
- Number of teeth: fewer teeth cut fast but rough, more teeth cut slower but cleaner. For ripping (along the grain) choose fewer teeth, for cross-cutting more.
- Tooth shape: alternate top bevel (ATB) teeth give a clean cut in solid wood and are the standard for wood.
- Sharpness: you can tell a blade is blunt from burn marks, needing more force and the saw drifting off line. Replace the blade or have it sharpened.
Cutting hardwood without burning or splintering
- Use a sharp blade that is suitable for hardwood.
- Clamp the workpiece firmly with sash clamps or G-clamps.
- Put masking tape along the cutting line to reduce splintering.
- With a circular saw or jigsaw, put the good face down. The blade cuts from the bottom up, so the top face splinters first.
- Set the cutting depth on a circular saw so that the blade protrudes about one tooth below the wood.
- Let the saw reach full speed first, then feed it through steadily. Do not push too hard.
- If you see burn marks, slow down slightly or check whether the blade is blunt.
Hardwood dust: protect your health
Dust from hardwoods such as oak and beech is classed as a cause of cancer. Tropical hardwoods can also irritate the skin and airways. So take precautions:
- Connect the saw to a vacuum cleaner or dust extractor.
- Wear at least an FFP2 dust mask, and preferably FFP3 for a lot of cutting indoors.
- Wear safety glasses and ear defenders.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated space, and clean up dust with a vacuum cleaner, not a broom.
Common mistakes
- Using a general-purpose blade with few teeth for fine cross-cutting, leaving splintered edges.
- Pushing too hard, so the blade heats up and the wood burns.
- Using a jigsaw blade made for softwood.
- Not clamping the workpiece.
- Cutting without dust extraction and a dust mask.
Frequently asked questions about cutting hardwood
Can a cordless circular saw cut thick hardwood?
A cordless circular saw cuts hardwood boards and decking components without trouble. Check the specifications of your saw for its maximum cutting depth. For thick beams, cut from both sides or choose a different saw. Use a sharp blade so the battery is not put under unnecessary strain.
Which jigsaw blade should I use for oak?
Choose a blade that the manufacturer specifies for hardwood. Bi-metal blades stay sharp longer in hard, dense wood. Finer teeth give a neater cut, coarser teeth cut faster.
Why does my hardwood burn when I cut it?
Usually the blade is blunt, has too many teeth for the job, or you are feeding too slowly or pushing too hard. Resin build-up on the blade also increases friction. Clean the blade with a resin remover or replace it.
Is cutting hardwood different from cutting softwood?
Yes. Hardwood offers more resistance, so you cut more steadily and are more likely to see burning and wear. In softwood you can work faster with coarser teeth. For both, a sharp blade and a well-clamped workpiece make the biggest difference.
In short: choosing a saw for hardwood
For hardwood, use a circular saw or mitre saw with a TCT blade, and a jigsaw with a hardwood blade for curves. Choose fewer teeth for ripping and more for cross-cutting, cut steadily with a sharp blade and clamp the workpiece. Work with dust extraction and a dust mask, because hardwood dust is harmful.
