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Cutting Laminate: Which Tool to Use and Which Side Up?
For the neatest result when cutting laminate, use a fine blade with plenty of teeth and put the decorative side the right way up. With a jigsaw or handheld circular saw the decorative side goes face down; with a mitre saw or handsaw it goes face up. For straight cross cuts, a mitre saw or laminate cutter is quickest. For cut-outs and curves, use a jigsaw, and for small adjustments a multi-tool.
What will you learn in this article?
- What is the best tool for cutting laminate?
- Which side up: decorative face or back?
- Which saw blade should you use for laminate?
- How do you cut laminate without chipping?
- How do you rip laminate for the last row?
- How do you cut around pipes and door frames?
- How much waste should you allow for?
- How long does laminate need to acclimatise?
- Laminate cutter or saw: which should you choose?
- Cutting laminate safely
- Frequently asked questions about cutting laminate
- In short: cutting laminate
What is the best tool for cutting laminate?
The handiest tool depends on the cut you need to make. On an average floor you will often use two or three of them.
| Tool | Good for | Decorative side | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mitre saw | Cutting boards to length quickly and squarely | Up | Less practical for long rip cuts |
| Circular saw with guide rail | Long rip cuts, the last row | Down | Support the board well and fix the rail firmly |
| Jigsaw | Cut-outs, curves, corners | Down (with a standard blade) | Use a fine blade and work slowly |
| Laminate cutter | Dust-free cross cuts | Up | Limited width and thickness, straight cuts only |
| Handsaw | The odd board cut to length | Up | Fine teeth, saw steadily |
| Multi-tool | Small adjustments, undercutting door frames | Up | Not for whole boards |
If you would rather work without a cable, a cordless mitre saw, jigsaw or circular saw from the Maxxpack 18V range will do all of these jobs.
Which side up: decorative face or back?
The top layer of laminate is hard and brittle. It chips most easily where the teeth come out of the material. So place the decorative face on the side where the teeth enter the board.
- Jigsaw and circular saw: these saws cut from the bottom upwards. Lay the decorative face down and mark your line on the back.
- Mitre saw, table saw and handsaw: the teeth travel from top to bottom. Lay the decorative face up.
- Exception: some jigsaw blades have reversed teeth that cut on the downstroke. With one of those, the decorative face goes up.
If you are not sure, make a test cut on an offcut first.
Which saw blade should you use for laminate?
Choose a carbide-tipped (TCT) blade with a high tooth count. Laminate has an HDF core with a hard-wearing top layer, and that layer blunts ordinary steel blades quickly. For circular saws and mitre saws, a blade with a triple-chip tooth grind works well, as it is designed for hard, coated board materials. The right number of teeth depends on the diameter of the blade, so check the blade packaging and your saw's manual for a blade intended for laminate or coated panels.
For a jigsaw, choose a fine blade for laminate or hardwood, ideally carbide-tipped or bi-metal. Coarse wood blades tear the top layer.
How do you cut laminate without chipping?
- Use a sharp blade. A blunt blade pushes rather than cuts and pulls fragments out of the top layer.
- Put the decorative face the right way round, as described above.
- Run masking tape along the cutting line and mark on the tape. It gives the top layer extra support.
- Support the board on both sides of the line so it does not sag or pinch the blade.
- Set a jigsaw with the pendulum action off or on its lowest setting. Pendulum action cuts faster but rougher.
How do you rip laminate for the last row?
The last row almost always needs to be narrowed along its length. Measure in a few places along the wall, because walls are rarely straight. Subtract the expansion gap from each measurement. The required gap is in the laminate's fitting instructions and is often around 8 to 10 millimetres.
Cut the board with a circular saw along a guide rail or on a table saw. A jigsaw also works, but it is harder to stay straight over a long distance. If you use one, clamp a straight batten to the board as a guide.
How do you cut around pipes and door frames?
Radiator pipes: mark the centre of the pipe on the board and drill a hole that is noticeably larger than the pipe, so the laminate can move. Then use a jigsaw to cut two lines from the edge of the board to the hole. Once the board is down, glue the loose piece back in behind the pipe. A pipe collar finishes the opening neatly.
Door frames: do not cut the laminate around the frame. Undercut the frame instead. Lay an offcut on a piece of underlay against the frame and cut flat across it with a multi-tool or undercut saw. The new board then slides neatly underneath.
How much waste should you allow for?
In a straightforward room with a standard laying pattern, around 5 to 10 percent extra is the usual margin. With lots of corners, alcoves or a diagonal pattern you will need more. Use the offcut from one row to start the next, as long as it is long enough. Keep enough stagger between the end joints; the minimum distance is in the fitting instructions. Our guide on how to install laminate flooring covers the laying pattern in more detail.
How long does laminate need to acclimatise?
Leave the unopened packs lying flat for about 48 hours in the room where the floor is going, at room temperature, or for as long as the manufacturer specifies. If you cut and lay it straight away, the floor may shrink or lift later.
Laminate cutter or saw: which should you choose?
A laminate cutter works like a guillotine: quiet, dust-free and fast, but only for straight cross cuts. A saw can also cut lengthways, in curves and around obstacles. For a single room you can often manage with a jigsaw and a handsaw. If you are laying several rooms, a mitre saw saves a lot of time.
Cutting laminate safely
Laminate dust is fine and contains resin. Cut outdoors or in a well-ventilated room if you can, connect a vacuum extractor where possible and wear a dust mask rated at least FFP2. Wear safety glasses and ear defenders too. Wait until the blade has stopped before you remove the board, and take out the battery or unplug the saw before changing the blade.
Frequently asked questions about cutting laminate
Can you cut laminate with an ordinary wood saw?
Yes, a handsaw with fine teeth works well, with the decorative face up. A coarse saw for carcassing timber will tear the top layer. For a whole floor, a power saw is much faster.
Why does my laminate chip when I cut it?
Usually the decorative face is on the wrong side, the blade is too coarse or blunt, or the board is sagging while you cut. Turn the board over, choose a finer blade and support it on both sides.
Can I cut laminate with a multi-tool?
A multi-tool works well for small adjustments and for undercutting door frames. Cutting whole boards with it is slow, and the blade wears quickly on the hard top layer.
Which side goes up with a circular saw?
With a handheld circular saw the decorative face goes down, because the blade passes through the material from the bottom upwards. With a table saw or mitre saw it is the other way round and the decorative face goes up.
In short: cutting laminate
Choose your tool for each type of cut, use a fine carbide-tipped blade and position the decorative face so the teeth cut into it rather than out of it. Let the laminate acclimatise first, allow for the expansion gap and buy some extra material to cover waste.
