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Sanding a Table: Which Sander and Which Grits Should You Use?
For a tabletop, a random orbit sander works best: it removes material quickly and leaves very few scratches. For legs, edges and corners, use a detail sander or sand by hand.
When sanding a table, start with 80 grit if varnish or paint needs to come off, then sand with 120 and finish with 180 to 240.
What will you learn in this article?
- Which sander should you choose for a table?
- Which grits should you use when sanding a table?
- Sanding a table with varnish or paint on it
- Sanding a veneered table: protect the top layer
- Why dust extraction matters when sanding a table
- How to sand a table step by step
- Common mistakes when sanding a table
- Frequently asked questions about sanding a table
- In short: sanding a table
Which sander should you choose for a table?
A table consists of a large flat top and a base with legs, rails and corners. That usually means two kinds of sanding: fast and flat for the top, precise and manoeuvrable for the rest.
| Sander | Good at | Less suited to |
|---|---|---|
| Random orbit sander | Tabletop, removing old varnish, fine finishing | Internal corners and narrow rails |
| Orbital sheet sander | Flat finishing of top and edges, right into the corner | Removing a lot of material quickly |
| Detail sander | Corners, legs, rails and mouldings | Large areas |
| Belt sander | Very thick coatings or a badly warped solid top | Veneer and fine work, quickly sands too deep |
Random orbit sander for the tabletop
A random orbit sander rotates and oscillates at the same time. As a result you hardly see any sanding marks, even if you do not follow the grain exactly. For a tabletop it is the most versatile choice: with a coarse grit you strip the varnish, and with a fine grit you prepare the top for oil or varnish. A cordless sander, for example from the Maxxpack 18V range, lets you move freely around the table without a cable dragging across the top.
Orbital sheet sander and detail sander for the details
An orbital sheet sander has a rectangular base and reaches right into the corner of a top or edge. It removes material more slowly, which is exactly what you want when finishing. A detail sander has a triangular tip and is made for legs, rails and the internal corner where the top meets the base.
Why not a belt sander?
A belt sander removes a lot of wood in a short time. On a solid top with deep dents that can be useful, but it is also easy to sand a hollow into the top. It is not recommended on a veneered table.
Which grits should you use when sanding a table?
Always sand in stages and never skip more than one grit. Each stage removes the scratches left by the one before.
- 60 to 80 grit: to remove old paint or thick varnish, on solid wood only.
- 100 to 120 grit: to remove the scratches from the coarse grit and level the top.
- 150 to 180 grit: for a smooth surface ready for oil or wood stain.
- 220 to 240 grit: for a light sand between two coats of varnish.
Most tables do not need anything finer than 240 grit. With oil, a top that is sanded too smooth may even absorb less oil.
Sanding a table with varnish or paint on it
Old varnish and paint quickly clog sandpaper. Use light pressure and a high speed, and tap or vacuum the sanding sheet clean regularly. When a disc becomes smooth and shiny, replace it. With a thick layer of paint it can be quicker to remove most of it first with a paint scraper or paint stripper and only then start sanding.
If the table is older and you do not know what paint is on it, do not dry sand it without protection. Old paint can contain lead. In that case, work with dust extraction, an FFP2 or FFP3 dust mask and good ventilation, or remove the paint with a wet method.
Sanding a veneered table: protect the top layer
Many tables do not have a solid top but a layer of veneer a few tenths of a millimetre thick on chipboard or MDF. Look at the edge or the underside of the top: if you can see layers or a different core, it is veneer.
- Never start coarser than 120 grit.
- Keep the sander flat and keep it moving.
- Take extra care along the edges, because that is where you go through the veneer first.
- Sand a little less and accept a small mark rather than exposing the core.
Why dust extraction matters when sanding a table
You often sand a table indoors, in a shed or in a garage. Fine wood dust and varnish dust get into your lungs and spread through the house. Connect the sander to a vacuum or use the sander's dust bag and empty it regularly. Extraction also means the sanding sheet clogs less quickly, so you work faster and more evenly. Wear a dust mask and ear defenders as well during longer sanding sessions.
How to sand a table step by step
Clear and dismantle the table
Clear the table and, if possible, unscrew the legs. That makes the work easier.
Secure the top
Lay the top down firmly or clamp it in place, with a piece of scrap wood between the clamp and the top.
Sand the top
Sand the top with the random orbit sander in steady, overlapping strips. Start with the coarsest grit you need.
Sand the legs, rails and corners
Sand the legs, rails and corners with a detail sander or by hand.
Work through the grits
Repeat with each finer grit and vacuum the dust off in between.
Raise the grain
Wipe the top with a slightly damp cloth. Once it is dry, sand off the raised wood fibres with the last grit.
Finish the table
Remove all the dust and apply oil, wood stain or varnish according to the instructions on the tin.
For an average dining table, sanding and the first coat can easily take a day. After that, allow drying time for each coat.
Common mistakes when sanding a table
- Holding the sander in one place, which creates a dip.
- Skipping grits, so scratches from the coarse grit remain visible under the oil.
- Tilting the sander at the edge of the top, which rounds off the edge.
- Starting with a coarse grit on veneer.
- Not removing all the dust before varnishing, which leaves specks in the finish.
Frequently asked questions about sanding a table
Can I sand a table with an orbital sheet sander?
Yes. An orbital sheet sander gives a flat result and gets into corners well, but it removes old varnish more slowly. For a top with thick varnish, a random orbit sander is faster.
Which grit should I use on an oak table?
For an oak table with old varnish, start with 80 grit, then 120, and finish with 180. If you are going to oil the table, 180 is usually fine enough.
Should you sand with the grain?
With a random orbit sander it matters less, but by hand and with an orbital sheet sander it does. If you sand across the grain, scratches remain visible and stand out even more after oiling.
How can I tell if my table is veneered?
Look at the end grain or the underside of the top. If you see a thin layer of wood on a core of chipboard or MDF, it is veneer. If the grain runs through into the edge, it is usually solid wood.
In short: sanding a table
Sand a tabletop with a random orbit sander, and the legs and corners with a detail sander or by hand. Work from 80 grit through 120 to 180, and use 220 to 240 between coats of varnish. Take care with veneer, always use dust extraction and never sand old paint without protection.