Recommended tools & products

• Circular Saws – for clean, straight cuts across slat panels
• 12V Cordless Circular Saw 85mm – compact and accurate for trimming panels to height
• 18V Cordless Mini Plunge Saw 89mm – controlled plunge cuts and neat edge work
• Jigsaws – ideal for socket cut-outs and detailed shaping
• 18V Cordless Brushless Jigsaw – fast, smooth cut-outs with great control
• Caulking Guns – for applying mounting adhesive evenly and quickly
• 18V Cordless Caulking Gun – powerful output for longer adhesive lines
• Maxxpush 6V Caulking Gun with LED Work Light – compact and easy, with extra visibility from the LED light
• Level + tape measure – for straight alignment and consistent spacing
• Painter’s tape + sandpaper – prevents splintering and cleans up cut edges

Before you start: choose the right slat panels

Not all wood is suited for every location. Indoors, you can focus on appearance and acoustics. Outdoors, durability and moisture resistance matter most.

• Indoor warmth & style: oak or walnut slats for a premium look
• Outdoor durability: thermally treated pine or Douglas fir
• Less maintenance: pre-treated slats or panels designed for exterior use

If you’re installing acoustic panels, remember the black felt backing is part of the look. Painting the wall behind the panels often makes the finish look even cleaner.

Step 1: Prepare the wall

A clean, smooth wall helps panels sit flat and improves adhesive bonding. This step is quick, but it makes the final result look far more professional.

• Degrease and dust the wall thoroughly
• Repair bumps, holes or uneven areas if needed
• Mask skirting boards, edges and power outlets
• Recommended: paint the wall behind the panels (especially if gaps between slats will show the wall)

Step 2: Measure & plan the layout

Measure the total width and height of the wall where you want the slat panels. Panel sizes can vary, but common examples are:

• Indoor acoustic panels: approx. 30 cm wide x 260 cm high
• Outdoor panels: approx. 55 cm wide x 236 cm high

To calculate the number of panels: divide your wall width by the panel width and round up. Then decide whether you want full coverage or a feature section, and where seams should land for the cleanest look.

Step 3: Cut slat panels to size (clean edges)

Use this method for straight, splinter-free cuts:

1) Mark the size

Mark the desired height on both sides of the panel. Leave a small clearance (often around 2 cm) between the panel and the floor/ceiling for a cleaner finish.

2) Use tape to prevent splinters

Apply painter’s tape over the cut line. Draw your straight cut line on the tape using a level or square.

3) Cut the panel

For long straight cuts, a circular saw is fast and clean. For plunge work and controlled cuts, a mini plunge saw is ideal. For cut-outs (like sockets), use a jigsaw.

• Straight trimming: 12V Cordless Circular Saw 85mm
• Plunge/controlled cuts: 18V Cordless Mini Plunge Saw 89mm
• Socket cut-outs: 18V Cordless Brushless Jigsaw

4) Trim felt and sand edges

Cut felt neatly with a sharp hobby knife and lightly sand the cut edge for a smooth finish.

Step 4: Mount the slat panels (indoor)

Always do a quick dry fit first, especially if you have cut-outs. Then mount panel by panel:

• Apply mounting adhesive in a zig-zag pattern on the felt/back (use a caulking gun)
• Press the panel firmly to the wall and tap with your hand to seat it
• Check alignment with a level before the adhesive sets
• Repeat for the next panels and keep seams tight for a clean join

Step 5: Cut outs for sockets & obstacles

Sockets, switches, pipes or wall lights require accurate cut-outs for a clean finish.

• Measure the exact socket position on the wall
• Transfer measurements onto the panel
• Apply painter’s tape over the cut lines to prevent splintering
• Cut the opening with a jigsaw and dry fit before gluing

Finishing trick: on the last panel, you can trim a strip of felt so you end with a clean wood edge,  a sharp “wood on black” finish.

Outdoor slat wall: ventilation battens + protection

For outdoor installations, airflow behind the panels is essential. The best practice is mounting the panels onto a ventilation-batten frame. This helps prevent moisture build-up and extends the life of the wood.

Step 1: Calculate panels

Measure wall width/height. Divide the width by panel width (for example 55 cm) and round up.

Step 2: Mount ventilation battens

• Mount battens horizontally, evenly spaced (often around 50 cm apart)
• Pre-drill battens every 40–50 cm
• Drill into the wall and use suitable plugs/anchors
• Use shims/packers if needed so the battens sit perfectly straight
• Check alignment with a level

Step 3: Cut panels to height

Cut panels to match wall height, leaving around 2 cm clearance at top and bottom. Tape the cut line for a clean edge and sand after cutting.

Step 4: Protect the wood

Before mounting, treat the panels fully with an exterior stain/paint. For the first coat, treat both front and back to reduce moisture penetration. Recoat the visible side every 2–4 years depending on exposure.

Step 5: Mount the panels

• Screw panels onto the battens and keep checking alignment with a level
• Trim the final panel in width if needed (avoid cutting through embedded screws)
• For outdoor use, choose corrosion-resistant screws

Finishing touches & pro tips

• Lightly sand rough cut edges for a cleaner finish
• Fill visible holes if you used screws (indoor)
• Apply oil/varnish indoors for a warmer look and protection
• Outdoors: maintain with stain every 2–4 years depending on weather exposure

Slat walls look great in hallways, staircases, behind TVs, as kitchen accents, on ceilings for a warmer feel, and outdoors as privacy screens.